SunnyGal Studio Sewing

Hmm.....I have doubts. On this one. Which is so unusual for me. Maybe its the fact that I sewed up this dress just as autumn is tiptoeing into the area - although today it was around 88˚F, a shorts and t-shirt kind of day so what am I talking about?
For some reason when this pattern was released I was instantly drawn to it and just had to sew it up this summer. Vogue 1448, a DKNY design. So I did, and now I have doubts. Which is a rare thing for me. Usually I know exactly what I am making and either like, really really like or absolutely love. I wonder what it is about this dress? Another thought, typically when I sew a new pattern I can visualize where I would wear it. Casual clothes - no brainer. A more formal dress - ready for a party invite. Classic blazer - wear all winter long. But while I sewed this one I just couldn't picture where I would wear it.
and a little caveat - I took these photos in my sewing room with the camera timer late one afternoon in a fit of uncertainty. So maybe just a little awkward? Also I lightened them up a bit because of the afternoon shadows and now my skin looks weird.
Anyway...

One reason is fabric choice. And I'm not sure if it's the fabric in general, or the choice of this fabric with this dress. Looking at the fabric I do like it, but it's a bit muted for me. In a top to wear with jeans or something it would have been good. This dress is a fabric hog, it takes 3.5 yards of 60" for size 12. That is a lot for a dress for me - I can usually get a sleeveless dress for my not tall frame onto one yard or so. Consequently I ordered some fabric from Girl Charlee to use. Total fabric investment about $ 18 so I can't complain there. But that should have been a hint - that I was willing to sew it up - mostly for the fun of seeing how it all went together - but not willing to splash out on a $10 - $20 yard fabric.

How about some details? Here is the dress on the form. I had to do some adjustments to get a fit on the bodice and am quite happy with those adjustments. But this is one of those dresses where I think a lot of people might be unhappy with the final fit if no adjustments had been done. Details below.

and back view. With the self-fabric belt tied a bit snug on the dress form so you can see that it is supposed to blouse above the back waist. There is actually elastic just at the center back waist to pull it into the body.

Ok let's get down to the fitting details.

I did make a muslin of these two pieces - that's all I needed. That skirt would fit in any case so I just used some white knit fabric I found at a garage sale for the bodice parts.
Firstly, I used a size 12 and tapered to a size 14 at the waist, which was unnecessary. Since it is gathered at the waist I ended up removing that at the waist.

Reduced the center back by about 1 inch at neckline tapering to about 3/8 inch at waist. When I cut it out I added back a tiny bit at the top so more like 3/4 inch.
Shortened the back waist length by 1/2 inch. Usually I take away more here but I didn't want to eliminate the blousing at the back waist.
Lengthened the front bodice by 1 inch so the waist wouldn't ride up towards the bust. I used my gather the front into the back as if it were a hidden dart technique used also here (and explained)
Adjusted the wrap portion at the center front, changing the straight line to a curved one which adds a bit a the center overlap, I like the front to have a bit of a curve this way and find it makes any wrap much easier to wear. Had I not done this it would have been very low. As a lot of these Vogue designer patterns are. Maybe if you are a 6 foot tall glamazon it works but not on short me.
Raised underarm by about 3/4 inch. Maybe I have short arm depth? Is that a thing? or is it the armholes on these patterns? probably a combo but I find on a lot of the Vogue patterns if I raise the armhole it is much better, and if too high it is easy to take away.

Here is the pattern envelope photo and technical drawing. Now looking at it again perhaps it is veering close to a ruffle. I am not super into ruffles. Although a nice flounce - that I do like, as evidenced by this Pauline Alice pattern sewn earlier this summer. But a ruffle skirt just seems a bit prairie girl dress. On the envelope it looks better. I think the example is a chiffon or very lightweight fabric. Although the skirt is not lined - so the double layer of the fabric has to do some work to make it, shall we say, ladylike?

I have no complaints about these clever pockets, though. They are hidden in the ruffles and droop a bit on the dress form but as worn are smooth and don't stick out. Oh, another thing - this dress is not hemmed and I think on anyone taller it would be quite short (another typical Vogue designer thing). I figured the flounces didn't need hemming either, as this is a jersey knit and they are round so all bias edges but actually kind of disappeared on the skirt without any hem. The small stitched hem was enough to make them show up so that is something to keep in mind.

and a look at the bodice. Featuring my blue leather belt which lives in the sewing room. Kind of amazing how many of my creations that it matches, which might say something about my restricted color palette. Or that blue goes with anything :) This fabric is a navy blue background with little pink, grey and magenta abstract spots. The bodice is lined with knit fabric. There is info on knit linings in my recent post.

See, kind of odd from the side. Also I thought it was a bit strange that the ruffle things didn't match at the side seams. And I know I didn't sew it wrong so that was the design.

Here's one with the belt instead of the self-fabric tie. I actually like the belt, maybe it makes it a bit less girly? which is not the intent. Ack - I dunno. Anyway this is going into the closet with the other summer stuff and we will give it a try next spring.

This is my favorite picture of the day. I rolled my sewing worktable across the room so I could stand against the blank wall and take a mirror shot. Forgetting that everything behind the mirror is also in the camera's view. So real life sewing room, or portion thereof. including my Singer Rocketeer which everyone seems to notice in pictures. iPad on the table because who can sew without constantly checking up on the sewing blogosphere. Sneakers discarded, a muslin of Sewaholic Alma blouse hanging on the door which I am sewing for someone else. My very ugly floor lamp which I usually hide if anyone comes over but it takes a 3-way bulb so nice and bright. TV remotes on the desk because if not listening to podcasts then catching up on TV. The teal blue trays on the desk which are super handy for keeping all my tools in and then I can move them around the room. And most importantly my glasses because you know, sewing.

So that's the latest. I think I had better make a hard right turn into Fall Sewing. One of these days around here it will be frosty in the morning and thus turtleneck + boots weather. Not that I want it. Just tolerate. However if we have a nice rainy winter I will be thrilled.

Happy weekend sewing - and be careful as there are a lot of desperate folks (read non-sewers) on the hunt for Halloween costume fabrics this month.

Beth

For my garden photo today - speaking of desperate - it is so dry, even the trees are starting to look a bit exhausted. I am worried about the lemons and hope we get a good drenching soon.

So how about a succulent - although I'm not exactly sure what this is. The plant in the background is definitely a succulent though.

It is safe to say there are some tropical or novelty prints that I find irresistable. Particularly palm trees, or as demonstrated earlier this summer, pineapples. Also I really like Girl Charlee fabrics, they hit my sweet spot of colorful, not too pricey, lots of prints, stuff I don't see in local shops and all around cheerfulness in their array of fabrics. I do find their emails baffling, what is a Knit Fix? OK - please don't answer, I don't need to know. But I have adjusted my email preferences so that I don't get every one of their promos. I guess it is some type of sale where you get a big bundle of fabrics without choosing what is in it, and then people sell/trade for the ones they want. I suppose it works well but I don't need to get any fabric suprises, the stuff I already have is enough of a suprise. Evidenced by me looking at my fabric closet and wondering when I ordered that and what the heck was I thinking of making?

To get to the point - I ordered a number of things from Girl Charlee over the summer and have sewn up about half. They are pretty much summer fabrics,(** see footnote) or at least not fabrics I would choose in winter. So the remainder is put away for next year and here are the results for the ones I did decide to cut into.

That photo appeared on my Instagram during the SewPhotoHop and got a lot of love. It is my beloved Vogue 1247 with a little modification to the hem because it seemed a little plain. As plain as a denim skirt covered with dancing pineapples could be.

This photo is a little bright and I did not wear my shirt tucked in but wanted to show the V1247 in all its splendor, ha ha.

Here it is on is the dress form. I did lengthen the pattern as I usually do, and then also made it with my "no waistband" modification. Just cut a facing using the top of the skirt. I like a clean finish at the top of a skirt with no waistband, also then it doesn't come up so high at the waist. Although in that photo above it does - I think because that top is kind of a bulky knit. another reason not to tuck in.
I have now made this pattern 4 times with no end in sight. Here is the link to my first "no waistband" version with all the details. A key to that turning out well is stabilizing the waist, and I don't think a seam binding is enough, needs some interfacing.

As for the hem, bias binding was fine for that. To get the round edge I just played with drawing on paper until I had a curve that would look good. Cut out the skirt as normal. left the bottom of the side seam unsewn, chose where the hem would be and then trimmed the curve sections using my paper template. Easy peasy :)

By the way, I was out to dinner when in Hawaii and the hostess at a restaurant looked down at my skirt and squealed - OMG, your skirt is so cute - it has pineapples on it. Yep it does :)

Second item in my summer of Girl Charlee is this tunic top I made for my mom. I saw these black and white palm tree prints all over this spring and summer in the fashion collections so I was really happy when I saw it on their website. This fabric is a rayon woven and I was pleasantly suprised at how nice it is. Sews beautifully. I did pre-shrink. Very light and floaty but not see-through.

The pattern is my trusty self-made pattern, which I started by copying an existing tunic top which is also my mom's. My first post was back in 2012 and then last summer I made one for myself,
I also did a 2-part post on Craftsy which details exactly how to make a tunic top from a shirt pattern - which I think is good - if I do say so myself :) So if you are interested in creating a tunic top pattern here are the links to part 1 and part 2.

I love a good black and white item but somehow needed the proverbial "pop of color" so I used bias tape to make the edging. And glad it did, it just needed an extra something. Also it was slightly too low cut so I added the horizontal piece in the center of the V, which we will call a design element!

Peek at inside because everyone likes to see that. I sew the sleeve edges on from the inside, flip to the right side and then topstitch down, which results in a nice clean finish on both sides. I think all that is described in the Craftsy posts.

Now last and perhaps least. I am not going to model this one - you will have to take my word that it fits and works well as a beach dress/swimsuit coverup. But maybe this fabric is just a little bit weird. I'm showing you the side view because look how nicely I matched the stripes on this weird fabric.

and even thought it is a beach coverup I still made a neckline facing - using some recycled white t-shirt fabic. Because on a lot of knits using bias tape is too stiff and just gets misshappen. Plus facing is just as easy (easier to me). and then lastly - a closeup shot. I looked at this fabric for quite a while before I cut it out and decided that it didn't have an up or down. THEN sitting on the beach watching the palm trees wave in the tradewinds I realized that yes - this fabric does have a vertical direction. and I got it wrong!

so now I feel like they look like spiders, not palm trees. Oh well............pass me another mai tai.

Mentioning Girl Charlee again, my previous dress was their fabric also. And thank you everyone who commented on that dress. I appreciate that you have my sewing satisfaction in your hearts. And will say that I don't feel as bad about the dress as I think was perceived. I do like it and I think it is one of those things that looks much better in person, the colors look better and the skirt moves nicely. The hem is a bit long and uneven but as I said, that will be dealt with come springtime. Quite a difference of opinion on the pockets - some said to get rid of them. Noooo! the pockets are maybe the best part, love a dress with interesting pockets.

** Footnote. I called the stuff we sew Fabric. And always do a double take (auditorially) when I hear Tim Gunn say on Project Runway "what are you planning to do with that Textile?" Do they never say fabric in the academic side of the fashion world? It just sounds funny to me and I wondered if anyone else noticed it.

Speaking of TV - well I am speaking of it. I LOVE the British Baking Bee which is airing on PBS here now. I could have watched it on YouTube I suppose but it's just easier to watch weekly and then I can catch up with friends/family members who like to chat about it. NO spoilers please. and No idea which season it is. But WOW the stuff they have to make is so difficult, and in the time allotted. I am so nervous for them watching it. and hungry sometimes. anyway - a fun diversion.

Onward to new things grabbing my attention. I just taped together the pdf of a Burda jacket mentioned recently. And about to start on a dress for Heather using some of her Mood Fabrics. Using a Burda envelope pattern which I have never seen sewn up - for a wrap dress that has a difference and I can say Burda LOVE! Highly recommend. Burda 6946. Expect raves when I post. Great pattern.

Happy weekend sewing, Beth

garden photo is from Hawaii.

Saved by the muslin! If you do make muslins of new patterns you will know this exact feeling. I saw this pattern a few weeks ago and thought it was just different enough to add to my jacket wardrobe. Interesting details and new shapes keep my interest, sewing-wise. And I don't really want to wear the same jacket over and over, no matter how much I like it. I already have 3 jacket pattern repeats in my wardrobe so I wanted something new. Here is the link to the BurdaStyle page, it is 04/2015 #116 so just released late this past spring.

But I am really glad I decided to test this one out. Just not my cup of tea. (not that anything is the right cup of tea for me - I think it tastes awful. Coffee, elixir of the gods :)
Back to this pattern. A few years ago I had a green cotton coat that I bought on a whim one rainy day when shopping at Macy's. It was really cute, trench coat style, nice buttons, belt, buckle details. But it hung in my closet because every time I put it on I fixated on the weird round shoulders. Which this pattern has as well. I operated on the green coat - tried to reshape the shoulder but it never was quite right so off it went in the donate bag. But this muslin below, when I put it on I just felt like I should be part of the crew of Starship something or other.

I did sew this test version up using a canvas type fabric I had in the stockpile - vaguely recall buying it at a yard sale or something. So a very small investment in fabric, $ 5.99 for the downloadable Burda PDF., about 2 hours for taping, adding seam allowances, cutting sewing just this far.

And now I will take a moment of solidarity to all those who puzzle through the Burda instructions. I never use the magazine (no way I am going to play spot the pattern piece on those sheets) and I have made a few Burda PDF's or Burda envelope patterns. The instructions are definitely minimal. 9 times out of 10 that's OK by me, I rarely look at them. But once in a while I do, particularly if there are oddball pattern pieces or the order of construction doesn't jump out at me. See above on the right side, this jacket has an underarm gusset, which in theory is fine but I didn't think it fit well and the markings were nonexistent.

Now let's turn up the whining knob to 11. Something I had not noticed before on Burda downloadable patterns is that the pattern pieces are not labeled other than the number. I am just crabby this weekend because despite my constant declarations about loving summer and summer clothes maybe I am just a teensy bit sick of this weather - ready to sew and even wear a jacket or two. OK boo, hoo I should not complain about lovely sunshine but the dry weather is almost getting on our collective nerve here the way I suppose constant rain does in other places.

So I had to print out that page with the key to the pattern pieces and then scrawl on them with a sharpie. See that underarm gusset, not even a dot or any good marks there. I figured it out but it made me appreciate my lovely Vogue patterns with every little dot and notch marked. I read a fair number of criticisms of Vogue patterns but so far I have never found a glaring error and do make use of all the pattern markings.

There was also a mystery pattern piece which was shaped like a pointy oval, about 3 inches long and named as "insert piece neck edge" but I could not figure out what it was for. Oh well.

As I said, just a bit cranky today so now that I have gotten this out of my system, crumpled it up and tossed it in the paper recycle bin I am ready to start something else.

And I have made a couple of BurdaStyle downloadable patterns that I count as real successes, including the plum shawl collar coat from late last winter, and this interesting jacket in grey tweed. Love both those patterns. And I think the Burda Plus patterns are outstanding, I am about to make this dress again for my friend Heather.

What next? perhaps as a season spanning measure I will make a blouse or two as I do have a bunch of fabrics designated for that.

This pattern is one I bought a few months ago so I the next jacket I will test will be this one. Kind of simple but I did want a new basic jacket pattern that I could use for the next few years. Although I suspect it might be a line for line twin of this Vogue pattern which I have made a few times. (the link goes to my final post in a full series of how I construct a tailored jacket with fusible interfacing) Noticing now that this one below is a 2-button and the older one I made previously is a 1-button. Which does make a difference.

Happy sewing, Beth

and another garden photo taken a few weeks ago in Hawaii. Good think as there is very little photo-worthy around here lately!

Do you know that phrase "be careful what you wish for?" I'm sure you do and I feel that sentiment lately, as I always wish for summer to last all year. However - my sewing mojo has completely disappeared and I attribute that to the lack of autumnal weather. Looking back on the past few years I always seem to have some post in October mentioning how we haven't started wearing jackets or boots but this year our forecast has been extra balmy. Feels a bit Los Angeleno, eek! 80's˚F most every day and I am actually getting a bit tired of it. even though taking an after dinner walk wearing shorts and a t-shirt is very pleasant.
Oh well, check back in January when I am complaining about our admittedly not polar winter. Note for travelers - so many microclimates here in the SF Bay area so check before packing your suitcase, you could find yourself shivering as you admire the Golden Gate if you don't bring a bit of everything.
Anyway - that is a long way round to say that I feel like I have quite a few fall or winter coats and jackets, so even though I love to sew them I just can't get motivated. Recently I bought some silks so I think this fall will be a festival of shirts and blouses.

Apropos of nothing: I am mildly obsessed with this Marfy dress pattern that I happened to see on their website. Talk about out of season! now that fall is approaching (sort of, see paragraph above). Anyway I am a sucker for a white dress and I can see that exactly as they have pictured, with the ribbon trim. Maybe I will order the PDF and put it away for spring. I had such good luck with my previous Marfy pattern - something about their proportions is very very good. Italiani e la moda, sanno quello che fanno. (they know what they are doing :) By the way they have some links on their website to sewing videos, I watched this one all the way though. While I do these pockets all the time I was kind of mesmerized by the person doing it - with no markings or tailors tacks. And as in the couture houses I have seen on various documentaries, the person sewing is wearing what looks like a white lab coat. I like that touch - maybe I will get one to up my sewing game.

Searching for something new: Not sure I am planning to enter but I saw an upcoming contest on Pattern Review titled "New to me pattern company" and thought that was a fun idea. So I have been looking....and looking, with nothing jumping out at me that I want to try. I was looking for an interesting jacket pattern, and I have already sewn Burda, Pauline Alice, StyleArc, Marfy, all the big US ones, even once made a Grainline pattern. So a new to me pattern company with an interesting jacket - so far nothing found. I saw a shawl collar jacket pattern from Waffle patterns but it didn't really thrill me or seem much different to what I already have. Any ideas? I might have to try a blouse or shirt.

So far all pattern releases have saved me from opening my wallet - nothing I am craving that is any different from patterns I already have - yay! for both $$ and space saving. I am kind of amazed by how many independent pattern designers jump in with a new pattern that is indistinguishable from the many that are already out there. However talking with friends who are learning I see that the instructions/sew-alongs etc are helpful. If I produced a pattern (which I am NOT) it would be like Marfy - here are the pattern pieces and sew it up! Mainly because I would be terrible at writing the instructions :)

Flat Pattern Measureing: Do you do it? I read a lot of posts where someone has sewed something by choosing a size but didn't look at the finished measurements or measure the pattern. My advice - do it. See below, the finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern but if they weren't you can use the measure tape, be sure to omit the seam allowance if it is on the pattern and then add front and back to get circumference. I saw a lot of questions on some knit patterns recently about finished garment measurements and negative ease. If you are really questioning, mark out that number with pins on your chosen piece of fabric and then wrap it around, hips, bust, whatever area you are concerned. If you like how that fabric feels at that circumference then great but if not alter, or find a different fabric. I think doing a bit of testing your uncut fabric, draping it over your arms, or wrapping around can tell you a lot about how it will look as a finished garment and save some time and/or money by helping select the right fabric.

Burda Plus envelope patterns: There are a lot of hidden gems among the Burda Plus patterns, and particularly in the envelope patterns. (actually I also think there are some good ones in the Simplicity plus patterns too). For many reasons a lot of Big 4 or indie patterns don't include all sizes and I think with a bit of searching you can find a lot of silhouettes in Burda that can be varied to emulate some of those patterns. I can't speak for all figure types but Burda plus patterns seem to have the proportions more right than others, in that the shoulders do not get so wide along with a larger bust. Anyway - just a little love from me for these patterns - I have used them for various people with good success. Also I love a multi-size pattern, so easy to grade between sizes for top half/bottom half, sleeves etc. I am now in the process of sewing this pattern for someone and it is really nice. I did adjust the neckline slightly for more coverage but will show all the pattern alteration details in a post when it is finished. I also bought the Burda 6713 blouse pattern, which also shows it as a dress. I like that Burda finds ways to create interesting details with creative necklines and dart shaping.

Burda 6713 envelope pattern, dress or blouse

Investment in Sewing Tools: I saw a great post by Karen of Did you make that? the other day, about which sewing tools turned out to be very good investments for her. I agree wholeheartedly about the wooden clapper, and I have waxed lyrical about the benefits of high quality interfacing many times. (My fave is from Fashion Sewing Supply, all the different types they sell, and I just noticed a sale on now ,15% off, I will be stocking up on the ProSheer Elegance and ProTricot deluxe).

She also mentioned buying and loving the very expensive invisible zipper foot, which seems like just the thing for a lot of people. In the comments quite a few mentioned that zipper foot plus the walking foot. I wonder if that is a Bernina thing? A machine I have never tried. As I have mentioned probably ad nauseam the machine I use for anything fussy is my Slant needle Singer 401 with the sliding zipper foot, here is a link and post with details on using that foot. I have so many interesting feet for my vintage machines, they are incredibly well made. However the only ones I use are the zipper foot, the buttonholer and once in a while the ruffling foot or the pleater. I have never quite mastered the narrow hemming foot. To tell the truth I forget about them and just plow ahead with the standard one - so far so good.

Why reading blogs is good for me: I have very fixed ideas about what looks good, what is the right fit, colors I love or hate, styles that are gorgeous or ridiculous and thankfully everyone else in the sewing blogosphere does not have the same point of view. Wouldn't that be a boring world if everyone had the same taste?
What I am trying to say is there is a lot of stitching available to view that are things I would never choose and that is a good thing. I see colors that I don't like but realize that someone else has picked a perfect shade for their own look. I see patterns that appear crazy or shapeless or difficult to wear and come across a blog post where someone has paired that pattern with a fantastic fabric and created something beautiful and unique. I see techniques that I can't be bothered learning but find amazing and so creative. Sewing blogs (and the related websites, instagram, etc) have really helped me view fashion and sewing in a different way, all to the good.
I probably won't be dyeing any fabric, or adding grommets, felting, embellishing or otherwise manipulating fabric but I have a growing admiration for everyone who does those things. Thinking about when I learned to sew and remembering that my only audience was my family and school friends gives me a greater appreciation for every new sewer that picks out a pattern, gives it a try and posts their creation - often baring their soul regarding fit, body issues and their feelings about clothing and appearance along with their sewing triumphs and failures. I wonder if I would have been quite so willing to share my early attempts.

As for recent attempts, I am trying another pants pattern (pants are my achilles heel, my white whale, my pot of gold at the end of the rainbow) In other words, I am never satisfied at fitting myself with pants. Anyway, giving it another try with this Vogue pattern, which has back princess seams. There are a lot of good versions to see so a girl can dream, right? I will report, if not model.

Happy almost Halloween sewing and have a great weekend,
Beth

another garden photo remaining from my vacation, in a somewhat autumnal color scheme. I see these Birds of Paradise growing around here in my neighborhood, even though they are a tropical plant. Just have to find the right spot where they never freeze. One of these years I will give it a try.

Do you ever look at vintage patterns just for the instructions? Perhaps this just shows how deep into sewing obscurities I can delve but my obsession with all things sewing related leads me to purchase completely unnecessary yet interesting vintage (or semi-vintage) patterns.

Some small detail or appealing illustration can be enough to draw me in. As long as the cost is minimal - and most of these patterns are found at various sales among bins and bins of old patterns for any price ranging from pennies to a couple of dollars.

Which brings me to this pattern I found at a recent ASG stash sale. If you have the opportunity to paw through the stack or bins of old patterns it becomes apparent just how many pattern companies there have been, some still succeeding, some disappearing without a trace, others being absorbed into a bigger entity. Today's independent pattern companies are carrying on a long tradition of sewing patterns and often creating something to fill a particular niche.

This pattern caught my eye and when I got a chance to look through the instructions they did not disappoint! When you read criticism of literature, they often mention the writer's voice. There is no mistaking that the author of these pattern instructions had a very specific voice - which might seem a bit dated but is very entertaining and include some very apt admonitions as well.

Else of California pattern, copyright is 1968. On the back they manage to give the fabric requirements for all sizes for every one of the possible options. Who doesn't want a pair of Flare Bells in their wardrobe?

Now we get to the entertaining part, which is not really part of the sewing or fitting instructions, but what struck me as more like editorial comments sprinkled throughout.

"There's a whole new world of pants waiting for you in this pattern...What's more...no matter what size you are, straight as a boy or beautifully bumpy, this pair of pants is going to fit"

bumpy? that's a new one.

This might be my FAVORITE one of the bunch, where she talks about taking your measurements and says
"Don't try to conduct the ceremony yourself, call in a close-mouthed friend and swear her to secrecy, if necessary"

No, wait. This part is my favorite.

"RIGHT HERE IS WHERE YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF FROM THE CLUTCHES OF ALTERATION!"

I like that idea - being saved from the clutches of alteration. Someone should use that if you are writing a sewing book. Most sewing books are so cheerful and upbeat in a way that is perhaps a teensy bit unrealistic (cue ironic smile here) After all, fitting/pattern adjustment is kind of tricky. And perhaps should be acknowledged as so a bit more often. Although I do have to give a shout-out to some of the Sandra Betzina sewing books, I have a few of her older ones, I think the Power Sewing series and she is so matter of fact about fit issues, what most everyone wants to highlight or obscure. A very rational point of view.
Anyhow, apparently Else of California can save us from the CLUTCHES OF ALTERATION!
I love that phrase! and now will try to use it in regular conversation, to confuse my friends.

Here's the helpful diagram which shows how to get all those variations from this one pattern. Talk about a good value. Which again illustrates my frequent point that there are no new patterns - or very few new patterns/pattern ideas. I do like how they have both a high waist with waistband or a lower cut pant option in the instructions and suppose you could modify with zipper placement, pockets etc to get all kinds of looks out of this pattern.

The fitting instructions are good, I would say they are like a condensed version of the entire Palmer and Pletsch Pants fitting book made to fit on one page which is clever. And sprinkled throughout are more crazy tidbits about hip pillows, baby darts and other fit adjustments that I have never heard of. (or never heard with those titles).

Lastly we come to the most important pants fitting conundrum - the saggy seat. Which Else has helpfully illustrated with this poor women who despite appearing quite trim and shapely has the dreaded baggy bottom. But Else has a solution. I did get a few tips from her instructions so hey - most anything is worthwhile if you learn something new.

The pattern pieces have been mostly cut down on the size 38 line (shame on you, non tracer of patterns) so not really useful for me, perhaps I will do a pattern giveaway on this one. But I think I have learned enough from Else and added a new zingy phrase to my vocab (clutches of alteration-ration-ration, now I hear it in my head with that movie echo effect).

Plus I have made an actual wearable totally satisfactory pair of pants using Vogue 9092 and it was not ALL THAT BAD! you have no idea how annoying I have found pants recently. Fitting pants sewing patterns, I mean. I have no trouble buying pants - they seem to fit perfectly fine if I buy them, but sewing fit has eluded me until now. Will try to take some pics this weekend.

Lots of sewing to do this weekend, I am in the midst of another version of this fantastic Burda dress for my friend Heather and I want to make a silk blouse for myself because the fabric is burning the proverbial hole in my pocket. Does that analogy apply to newly purchased fabric? I think so.

Halloween on a Saturday night, clear warm weather. Talk about terrifying! Mine is a very trick-or-treat favorable neighborhood and it so much fun to see the cute little ones that start as soon as it gets dark, and then exhausting by about 8 pm when the ridiculous almost-teenagers are showing up. On the plus side, each year one of my neighbors holds a sort of cocktail party on their front lawn - so we all close up shop, dim those porch lights around 9 and head down the street for some much needed iquid refreshment.

Happy Halloween weekend sewing!
Beth

As evidenced by the many many muslins I have sewn over the past couple of years, fitting pants is one category where I had almost admitted defeat. And I'm not quite sure why. We all have figure quirks, mine being no more or less exceptional than anyone else's. But for some reason I just have trouble with pants.

I think the fact that I can usually go into most any store and with a bit of effort find a pair of pants that fits quite well is also a factor. Why deal with fitting etc when I can find pretty much whatever I need via retail. But it did nag at me, and of course if you want something specific it is never to be found when shopping for just that item. So pants fitting, I have persevered and thanks to Vogue 9032 I think my luck has improved.

By the way - I did have reasonable success with the Sewaholic pants pattern but I do like the idea of the back princess seam on pants which allows for that extra bit of fitting if needed.
OK - enough talking, you want to see some results, right?

These are wearable but not particularly noteworthy. I just wanted to see if I could get this pattern to work, as it was designed so a basic trouser. I used the version C which is a flat front, slant pocket and more fitted leg. Although I shortened the pants by 3 inches, and did that at the knee so that took away a bit of the slight bootcut look. I think when I make them next (oh yeah, there will be another version) I will adjust the length both above and below the knee so that the leg shaping will remain. I might make them a bit more fitted in the leg as well but I think that is something you can do once the pants are machine basted together but that fit depends so much on the fabric choice.

Basting - my secret weapon. Perhaps a bit overdramatic but I mostly machine baste everything I sew. It takes just a few minutes, stitch, hop up, quick try on, a few pins on seams here and there, re-stitch, try on again, until satisfied. Then I go back to my pattern pieces, mark up my corrected seam lines, and happily put those pattern pieces away for next time (which may or may not ever arrive). Then I "for real" stitch up any seams that were basted, trim excessive seam allowances and press press press. Sometimes after pressing the fit might need one more little tweak. Because when trying on something, and pin-fitting a garment cut with intentionally large seam allowances all that bulk can get in the way of pin fitting, and once trimmed away there still might be a tiny adjustment. Probably on a dress bodice I would be super fussy but pants need room to be active so not as critical.

Adjustments made on this pattern:

Raised the center back. Despite being on the short side (5'3") I have a super long waist-to-hip length measurement (10.5") More proof of my claim that body length in the various segments is just as important as body circumference. I guess this is commonly called long waisted - but really it is long-hipped? Or I would like to invent a new acronym, as we use FBA for full-bust-adjustment. I need the LBA (I hesitate to write it, but here goes...the long butt adjustment). If you try on pants or jeans in the store and you see that tiny 2 or 3 inch zipper and know in your heart that those pants - even if they fit and zip are basically like wearing a bikini in terms of where they hit on your torso - then you too might need the LBA. Just to show that there in infinite variation in the species, my sister can try on the same pair of pants and the waist could be over her belly-button and verging on old man pants pulled up to the ribcage. Interesting huh? and this is why we sew!!! Anyway - I raised the back about 2 inches in the center and tapered to actually lowering 1/2 in in the center front. It was OK but is still a work in progress. They feel too high in the front and could possibly be about 1/2' lower in the back and still be comfortable.
Took in the back waist at the center about 1" total
Added small darts on each back side piece. I could have taken the center back in more or even the princess seams but it would have made those seams too close together and look weird. It might look weird anyway but I will not be likely to tuck in a shirt. I mostly wear sweaters or knot tops. But I am wearing a silk blouse so you can see the whole pants front.
made the waistband about 3/8" wider. It just looked kind of skimpy.
Added a seam in the center back of the waistband. For adjustment. Seems like a no-brainer but a lot of women's pants and pants patterns don't have this. I suppose for esthetic reasons but for sewing reasons totally necessary. This pattern does have seams in the waistband at the side seams, and I did take it in a bit there. Basically I fit my hip measurement and then adjust the waist.
All kinds of scooping and changing of the seat, which is also something that will need further experimentation.
Fish-eye dart in upper thigh back. Since this pant has a seam running down the center of each leg there is the opportunity to remove some of that bagging under the seat which seems inevitable. I took out about an inch at the center tapering to zero at the side seam and inseam. I'm pretty happy with that and figure if I took out any more there would be no walking or sitting room in the back of the pants.
More adjustments with that back seam. I took it in under the bum about an inch. See this photo below. The pants are done but I just drew that blue line to indicate where I took the seam in.

I really like this fabric and have no idea where I got it but a vague idea that I ordered it from Emma One Sock a long time ago. Its a really high quality stretch woven, probably has some cotton, maybe rayon, lycra, who knows. But it is a nice useful grey shade.

Here's the back view. Which I am kind of self-conscious and really don't like seeing however in the interest of pants fitting science... Yes that backside needs some pockets or something to break up the expanse. Next version. Plus I like having back welt pockets.

If you look at pants long enough you start to see all kinds of wrinkles etc so its best to get them to fit and then move on - literally. No matter how you fit, once you move the fabric will do what it wants and create folds, wrinkles etc. Some are just the nature of the garment and I need to give it a rest. Seeing this photo they might be a bit short but I always have to decide with my pants - flats or heels so I think this pair is more for flats. Also looking at this the front waist could be slightly lower, but I was trying to make kind of a basic trouser and then figured I could play with that later.

The garden is looking terrible, this is the low ebb, nothing blooming, water rationing in full force, however if I took this today you would see a pile of supplies and tools on the lawn. The patio cover is being redone and the whole wood frame painted to match the house in a pale sage green. Why was it red? I think some previous owner had a can of that paint. Having an older house means finding out all kinds of oddball stuff that previous owners did when they remodeled or repaired. Don't get me started on the irrigation system - it is still working on a wing and a prayer.

So onward to more pants! I have some dark purple stretch woven that I think is bengaline? which I bought a while ago at Joann's of all places (a nice fabric hiding in plain sight among all the crap).

Yesterday someone gave me a giant piece of gorgeous wool coating which I am going to use to make a pattern I have been thinking about for two years. I am so excited! Stay tuned for more tailoring in the near future.
Right now I am finishing up two dresses for my friend Heather from her haul of Mood fabrics. I just cut out a fuchsia wool knit that is the dreamiest fabric. Details to follow.

It was actually chilly today - real coat weather - sort of. I did see some people in shorts and flip flops. Actually we see that 12 months of the year here. I get cold just looking at them!

Happy Fall Sewing, Beth

Do you ever rummage around in your closet and find something you completely forgot about? I can confess I do it fairly often. A slight drawback of sewing a lot means that many things get worn a bit when new then shoved to the back of the closet with something new taking up my attention.

However when it comes to UFO's - unfinished objects - in my sewing, I just never have them. Does that sound impossible? Kind of snobby? Believe me, in the rest of my life I have plenty of unfinished objects, tasks and to do lists. (That garden shed is not cleaning itself - despite my thinking about it regularly). But sewing - I finish almost everything I start. If I am not liking the look of something, due to color, or maybe the shape is all wrong for me, I generally finish the item and then either give it to a friend or donate to the charity shop.

But the other day I was moving something in the sewing room closet and came across that rarest of items, an unfinished object. An almost finished black wool skirt. With pockets! a potential wardrobe workhorse! Which was really great for many reasons, the primary one was that I was just about to cut out a black wool skirt. Eek. So after a few moments of mental fog I remembered that I started last spring, just as it was really heating up around here, decided to set it aside to finish in the fall, and promptly forgot completely about it.

Such a great pattern, super quick to sew, very easy to fit and has nice pockets that are a snap.

I never even noticed the View D where the pockets are vertical. might have to try that.
Never mind, mental fog again. I did make that version but it was a bit of an improvisation as I reused the pocket welts from the existing coat when I did the coat refashion into a skirt and jacket. That blue outfit is SO warm. Which I guess is what you get when you make a skirt/jacket out of a thick boucle wool coat.

Anyway - back to the current version. Not really exciting I suppose but as I said, a wardrobe workhorse and perfect to wear with black boots and tights.

What is happening, I look rather linebacker-y here? I should give some thought to the Better Pictures Project by Gillian which is such a great idea. but I probably won't :) So sometimes I can achieve nice photos taken in lovely lighting and sometimes we get crappy timer photos as I am rushing off to do something else. Hey I'd rather be sewing.....hmm idea....who wants to buy a bumper sticker? Aside - does anyone still do bumper stickers, they were a staple of my childhood but I don't see them as often anymore - I think those window cling thingies or the license plate holders have surpassed them. The political campaign ones are occasionally spotted. T-shirts have overtaken bumper stickers as the means to wear one's motto, I suppose.(my personal fav - life's a beach).

Back to sewing, view of pockets and waistband.

and inside view. I used a regular zipper for a change. (What a breeze to sew in a nice old fashioned regular zipper). This photo below is more accurate for the color of this black wool, the one above is a bit overexposed.

When I pulled the skirt out of the closet the lining was attached but I hadn't hemmed the skirt or lining and also the lining needed to be attached at the zipper. I used a plain black cotton for the waistband inside, and then a bemberg rayon for the rest. Because I don't like itchy wool on the inside but if I use lining there then you have the proverbial spinning skirt. You KNOW just what I mean. How you are going through your day and realize that your center back zipper is somewhere east or west of where it should be. Because the slippery nature of the inside of the skirt lets it move around. So using a cotton there just gives it a tiny bit of grippy-ness that tends to keep it properly located.

What about the t-shirt you are asking? Or maybe you aren't..... It is my favorite long sleeve t-shirt pattern, Burda 6990.

A look at the pattern envelope. I LOVE this pattern. So easy to make, fits like a dream and it is perfect for using up scraps of various knits. As demonstrated by the one on the left. All remnants for the WIN!
The blue one is a remnant I bought at Stone Mountain (if you go there check their remnants sections, some nice finds in there). Although I am not 100% about the pattern placement but with 1.3 yards you get what you get. And I keep saying I will make the other versions on this pattern, like that big dramatic cowl version, but so far I have not gotten to it.

So that is the latest on UFOs and scrap sewing. I have been really busy lately plus some construction/remodel stuff which is now all completed and we are all ready for the rain to arrive. The weather forecasters keep promising but so far not much.

I can report that it is quasi coat weather now. My shorts are all put away and I am planning on sewing a coat. Because there is a pattern that has been haunting me for at least two winters and someone just gave me some fantastic fabric that they didn't want to use, and wanted it "to go to a good home". So nice! Which means that I have to use it well. Stay tuned for coat sewing and tailoring to bust out here soon. I have all kinds of resolve to pound it out over Thanksgiving weekend.
Plus I have 2 silk blouses in the works (well patterns adjusted and matching thread obtained if that counts as in the works).

Speaking of coat patterns - everyone is talking about coats, pinning coats, sewing coats. So I think a Pattern Whisperer post on coats is overdue. Because I am a maniac about fit I think it will be patterns that have lots of options for adjustment to get a good fit. Any interest?

happy autumnal* sewing, Beth

* I have always liked that word, autumnal. even though I could do without autumn
For today's garden photo, a very autumnal coloration of sunflower, which bloomed at the end of summer.

A few autumn leaves, a couple of frosty nights and my sewing mojo is back. With a chill in the air coat season is finally here!
Do you ever have a pattern that have not bought but keep returning to? Over and over again, thinking about, wondering what fabrics might work, evaluating if it right for your wardrobe? This BurdaStyle pattern is from 2012 and I have probably been looking at it since then. I don't get the magazine but I always take a quick peek at their emails showcasing the new pattern collections so maybe I first saw it there.
Recently someone gave me a gorgeous piece of wool coating and I wanted to use it for something really special. Here is the link to the pattern page.

The gigantic scarf is obscuring the collar details but fortunately they show it in the other image. And this pattern led me to a discovery that may be well known to you but something I never noticed before. More on that in a minute.

Back to the fabric. That beautiful green wool was given to me, it is a perfect weight of coating fabric. Already pre-shrunk and sealed up in a bag - thus you can see a few wrinkles which pressed out perfectly. I started thinking about combinations for the tricolor coat and remembered that I had a very heavy wool coating in my stash which - wait for it - I bought at some rummage sale or something like that. It is a 4 yard piece of super dark navy blue wool coating. Just sitting in my stash until needed :)
And I probably paid under $10 for that. So....two fabrics ready and one more needed.

This is where my silly little discovery happened. I often do a screen capture of the technical drawing image from pattern websites, either to save for a blog post, or to print out and color in with pencils, just to play around with fabric options. This time I had the drawing open in Photoshop and clicked on the paint bucket tool, filled in on the coat and to my surprise it just filled in one section. So I changed color and filled in the other sections. As with so many features in Photoshop (and many many other programs) trial and error or happy accident or crazily frustrated random clicking results in some new epiphany. (or possible erasure of an hour's worth of work but we won't focus on that now). So this may be a well known feature of the technical drawings but it was news to me. And what a perfect pattern to play with this feature.

I was thinking grey for the third color but my newly found coloring tool helped me decide on something a bit brighter (oh what a surprise, when do I choose the understated). Although the grey is nice and I could imagine this coat in shades of all grey - that would be very sharp looking. So something in the sapphire blue was the winner. Which I didn't have so I had to order fabric. Fortunately I found a perfect choice at Gorgeous Fabrics, a wool coating for about $ 23 yard. Just needed one yard so in the shopping basket it went and you can see it above.

I did make a muslin of this pattern before I cut out my nice wools. Using some scraps of various things and not doing the colors in the same array as the pattern, but I just wanted to check the fit and length. I cut out the Burda size 40 with about an inch added at the hip on the side seams and the fit is spot on. Can I take a minute to rave about the Burda sleeves? I have now made a few Burda jackets and so far their sleeves are really great. Although long! which I guess is better than too short.

Sewing this coat I have taken a lot of photos - so expect a few more process posts along the way.
Here is the first on my sewing process. When it comes to linings, whether in the jacket or coat, or just the pockets, I am not a fan of novelty linings. Inside jeans or shorts it looks cute to have some contrasting cotton and that's a good way to use up scraps, but when it comes to any "serious" coat (defining serious as something I put a LOT of work into and intend to last years) I want the pockets to disappear, or be hidden and have no chance of peeking out.

So for the pockets which are in the side seams on this coat, I add an extra section of fabric and then sew the pocket bag onto that, which serves to have the coating fabric extend about 1.5 inches into the pocket so the pocket lining stays hidden. Although I did use a dark navy for the pocket lining so it is not very visible anyway.
Sewing process item #2, interfacing. While all these wools are quite thick and this design doesn't need much support (no lapel or traditional collar) the 3 fabrics were slightly different in weight and thickness. I wanted them to all behave the same way so the method to achieve that is interfacing. Also my muslin test showed me that sewing those curvy junctions was very tricky and needed some stabilization. More on this in my next post but for starters I pulled out all kinds of interfacing and did some tests.

I always do tests on my fabric and interfacing combos, not just applying the interfacing but then stitching the fabrics together in various combinations to see how they go together. Sometimes I am surprised at what works so the test is always worth the few minutes it takes. For most wools I use this Pro-weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply (note I just got an email this morning they are having a sale, 15% off.

Here is the sample I played around with, front and back.

I tried to create a section that matched the pattern where the 3 colors were joined together, and also included a curve, which I had to snip, making it look like some kind of abstract art face or something. But you can see that the various weights of interfacing applied, then I stitch the pieces together, including where there is interfacing because you want to see how the interfacing does in the seam as well as in the body of the garment. I ended up using several different weights of the pro-weft as well as some knit interfacing in other sections which I will show in a subsequent post. And that image on the left includes a little speck of interfacing on the blue section - something about this wool coating catches every little spare thread or speck of interfacing, which I noticed here on this test and had to be really careful of when I did apply to the real pattern pieces. Also late night interfacing - of course I fused a big piece to my press cloth because it was glue side up. Which is a good indication that it is too late to be sewing and time to turn out the lights, unplug the iron and get some sleep. Also - yay for fusing to the press cloth and not the iron. Thank you Mr. Press Cloth for always being there :).

And now a little sneak peek of the coat in progress. Lots more details to come for readers who comment that they love to see the in-process sewing and technical details.

This morning I got some Christmas shopping done, so civilized with my cup of coffee and my laptop. Unfortunately the "one for them and one for me" habit is hard to avoid. Oh well.....

Now off to the gym and then perhaps some garden work is in order. Or I could stay inside and sew. Decisions, decisions. Oh who am I kidding, I will probably sew.

Happy Thanksgiving weekend and wishing everyone delicious leftovers - one of the best parts of this great holiday
Beth

Before the polar vortex hits your part of the world you may have winter coat sewing in mind. Since I was in the midst of making a new coat I mentioned recently the idea of a pattern whisperer post on coats and the response was positive. So I have rounded up a few coat ideas with my thoughts on fitting and ease of sewing.
Full disclaimer here - I mostly sew with Vogue and now Burda (both envelope and magazine downloads) so the choices from those pattern lines. I really like Burda in all forms lately for outerwear, they seem to have more choices in coats and cover all size ranges with stylish and wearable options. Also I tried to find coat patterns that are actually suitable for wearing in the cold. I made that Burda portrait collar coat last year and someone commented that it was a "fashion" coat not a winter coat, which is understandable when you look at the open neckline. Actually it is funny because that is the warmest coat I have - due to the thick fabric and with one more button or hook you could close the collar and be nice and toasty!

It seemed strange to me but quite a few of these patterns are a little dull as pictured on the pattern, and this is where imagination has to step in. I think for coats it really pays to look in stores, try on some various colors, shapes etc. While a black coat will last in your wardrobe for a good while, there are a lot of neutrals that work really well for coats and depending on your typical color scheme grey, dark red, deep purple, navy or a camel color are also really good for a coat that you can wear with a lot of options. Usually for dresses or tops I don't make a muslin but for a coat it is a must. Just so much better to get the fit resolved before you cut into your nice fabric. And coating needs interfacing. I will have some details in my next post about interfacing although you can look at some of my past posts to see more on that.

First up a newish pattern from Vogue 9157. This has a lot going for it in terms of ease of sewing. It might look like a lot of pattern pieces but I find that last stretch of sewing a coat is kind of a wrestling match - usually in a heavy wool it can get really bulky and awkward. I could see constructing this one in the upper and lower half, and then attaching. Also raglan sleeves - if you have had some trouble with setting in a sleeve in a thick wool this would be much easier. I used to not like double breasted coats but am coming around a bit. Cute pockets also on View B. (View A is a jacket length). I'm sure that View C has in seam pockets. The kicker for this pattern is that it comes in cup sizes which saves some work in the fitting. No reviews that I can find which is a suprise but someone is probably sewing it up right now.

Next up is a pattern that might be a bit hard to find. Simplicity 2311. I posted this on Instagram not long ago and mentioned that it was a great pattern but discontinued but Simplicity commented that it still available. I made it a few years ago and love how it turned out. The tech drawing had me worried about the size of the lapels but I found them to be perfect. Proportion wise, fit etc this pattern is a winner, also I didn't find any exessive ease or other issues that can be common with some Simplicity patterns. A few years ago they had a lot of cute coat patterns but the choice has dwindled from them lately. I also like that this pattern had single or double breasted, princess seams front and back, choice of different collar options. I like patterns with a lot of options!

Ok, here is the one that might be a bit of a sleeper, Butterick 6141. Something about how it looks on the model - and even in the tech drawing is kind of frumptastic, but I think this coat has a lot of potential. The example just looks too big in the waist for the model, picture it with the waist nipped in a bit more, which would then emphasize the flare over the hips. Very retro in a good way. If you like fit and flare dresses this might be the style for you. On the plus side, it has shoulder princess seams - great for fitting over the bust, choice of collar options, even a hidden placket option where you can use large snaps for those who are just over doing buttonholes in thick wool fabric (we have all been there). This pattern with a better fit could be a really nice vintage inspired look.

To illustrate my point on this Butterick pattern I took a deep dive into my closet to photograph this coat which I did not sew. My mom bought it for me when I started my first real job in San Francisco. But is the same idea as the above pattern, princess seams (although these are armhole princess) and then those release pleats at the waist creating a slightly full skirt and giving it a nice hourglass shape. We bought this coat downton at Joseph Magnin's which doesn't exist anymore (sad). It has a velvet collar and bound buttonholes, plus the sleeves are slightly full and then end in pleats at the wrist which echo the pleats in the skirt. I love release pleats - or to be accurate I think they are release darts (darts which don't go to a point). Anyway - that is a feature I have always liked. The very popular Anna dress from ByHandLondon has that type of dart in the bodice and if you get the fit right it looks pretty and a bit vintage-y. So........does anyone else see the potential in that Butterick pattern?

Moving on to a pattern where I have no doubts, this Burda plus pattern is so sharp. The model looking so gorgeous from head to toe might have something to do with it but oooo a red coat!. Plus traditional menswear overcoat shaping, nice lapel, welt pocket, walking pleat in back, two piece sleeve. Love it. And this is a Burda Plus pattern. (Burda Plus has soooo many good patterns - ok they have the requisite odds and ends with goofy styling but really - lots of great choices available. My only hesitation is those darn "dior darts" which can hard to sew in ponte or something that doesn't want to press but seem to work better in natural fibers, especially in a lofty wool which you can steam to get nice shaping.

For a relatively new sewist or if you are a little worried about coat sewing, I think this Burda Easy coat is so cute and comes with (allegedly) complete instructions for the new sewer. I really like the version on the right, it has a snap front, high collar, interesting darts front and back and one drawback - faux pockets. But the pocket flaps are cute and I would put side seam pockets to get around that little issue. I am not a fan of collarless coats (short haired girl here - neck is always cold) but that coat has my number one sewing dislike - separating zipper. So go ahead all you zipper fanatics. For some reason this is just the top of the list of things I will never sew, I just hate sewing them and don't really like wearing them. But I admit they do look great on some garments. Oh well.....

Here is another Simplicity, 1015 pattern that ticks a lot of boxes for being both current and practical, yet the pattern envelope styling would have me running for the hills if I had not scrutinized it a bit more.

Looks relatively easy to fit, and really easy to sew with slouchy shoulders instead of set in sleeves, princess seams, a nice big collar for warmth, fastens with a belt although you could add buttons or snaps as well. This is the first coat pattern I have seen in ages that has included the pattern for the button in/out extra warm lining layer. I have had coats with that and they are kind of handy - makes them more of an all weather coat. And if you sew one coat you want it to be useful for a long time, right? Although what is happening with that View B on the left, with the grey and black. That is some pitiful color blocking. also is she wearing knee socks? I don't even want to know.

Next are my picks for the comfy coat that feels like a blanket but looks great paired with the right pieces. The one on the left is a Burda downloadable and the one on the right is an envelope pattern.

They are similar in silhouette but the one on the left has a more cool vibe, and interesting seaming. The one on the right looks easy to sew and fit and would make a great warm casual coat in a tweed or check as they show. I suspect it doesn't really take all that much fabric which could be good. The collar is actually more like a shirt collar than a typical lapel, so if you have sewn a shirt you could definitely sew this coat.

I have to give a shout out to a couple more great coats. First the Quart coat from Pauline Alice patterns, I sewed this last year for a friend and it is a gorgeous looking coat. Slight warning - check the length as it is on the short side so if you want a knee length coat you may need to adjust. But it has those super cute pleated insets on the sides. Love! If you love plaid give that a try - but this falls into the category of a supposedly fun thing I will never do again (so I say).

Another coat I recently saw almost made it to my list but I was trying to keep it short, however if you want a feminine, fitted style check out Margo's recent coat, which is Burda 6772. I love the idea of a dressy coat and this one is perfect to brighten up the winter.

It took me a while but I am now convinced that if you want a good coat pattern, try Burda first! they have a good variety, casual, traditional, formal, fashion-forward and lots of choice across the whole pattern size range including plus size. And their sleeves seem to be very well drafted.

Here are links to the Burda coats I have made.

BurdaStyle book coat in blue wool.
Burda plus coat in black wool.
Burda magazine pattern in heathered plum wool.
Burda magazine tricolor coat - in process :) up next on the blog.

So are you sewing a coat this season? what are you waiting for - winter is upon us!

Happy December sewing,
Beth

This is another of my posts where I feel it should have a subtitle. And the subtitle should be be "Try, Try, Tricolor coat". Ok slightly pathetic excuse for a pun but this is a coat where I had completely finished it, then gone back and made a fit adjustment, not once but twice! So that makes three times I said "all done" and I am now fairly satisfied with it.
Pictures first and then a bit of explanation and some construction info.

I love that jade green color and the quality of the fabric is so nice. My previous post is about the starting the coat, where I got the fabrics (the green one was a lovely gift) and some notes on fabric preparation, interfacing, etc. I might do another post on more of the sewing details, and some tips on interfacing as it pertains to coats.

I have not tried to recreate the style of the pattern photo shoot before but often have been tempted so my photographer was willing to give it a try. Leave it to Burda to add one element (that chunky scarf) to obscure the garment's details.

So where do the three revisions come in? I really had the coat completely finished, and placed on the dress form in my sewing room but I just couldn't stop looking at the width of the shoulders. It seemed too big for the dress form, so I would put it on and take it off trying to decide. Also once I had it sewn up but before the lining, it seemed to need shoulder pads even though the pattern did not call for them. So I put them in, and then finished the lining. That is when it started to look too big. Pattern notes: I made a Burda size 40 which is what I used for the Burda heather purple shawl collar wool coat but I am wondering if the thickness of that fabric took up some of the room and thus it was not too big. I think this tricolor coat in size 40 turned out too big. And then I studied the Burda measurements and realized a Vogue size 12 which I usually start with probably corresponds better to a Burda 38. So my eyes were not playing tricks on me, it was too big.

Here is the back view so you maybe see what I am talking about. I have only one other issue with the pattern, where the back upper yoke attaches to the panels, it seems a bit too big there, or it could be something I did but I made it work.

So I decided to narrow the shoulders. Meaning I had to detach the upper portion of the lining. Which I always sew in by hand so it wasn't that bad to do.

I moved the top of the sleeves in by about 5/8". First by unpicking them, from about 4 inched down from the center top going toward the front and back. Then I shifted them inward, making the shoulder seam shorter. BASTED in place. Tried on, did some little adjustments here and there. Then machine basted. Tried on again just to make sure everything was right. Measured the length of each shoulder seam to make sure they were even. Then stitched them up on the machine. Re-attached the sleeve heads. Tossed away the shoulder pads (yay!). Re-attached the lining. And satisfaction :)

Here is a look at the collar and the closure, which are large hooks. I thought they would bug me but they seem fine. The most important thing (Ok one of the important things) was to sew them perfectly so the color blocking would line up just right down the center front.

And the side view. Here is where need for the second adjustment became apparent. Darn that Burda size 40. The sleeves were too wide, particularly in the bicep. So once again but in a different place, I unpicked the lining sleeve hem (also sewn by hand, so not difficult to undo). and then pulled the sleeve through the bottom opening (I do not bag the lining so the hem lining is not attached to the coat hem - just never have done it that way - and makes adjustments a lot easier). I narrowed the whole sleeve by 1 inch total (taking a half in seam tapering to nothing where it attached to the armhole). And I liked it soooo much better. Perfect. and a live and learn moment to compare things to other garments that fit well (which I always tell people to do but should have done in this instance myself).

A few details on the facing/lining. The pattern had a one piece facing down the front, I think the instructions said to use the same color as the sections in green, but that just bugged me. I thought the facing should continue the color blocking so I had to make it that way. Easy enough to use the pattern pieces from the color blocking to make facings. Also the pattern front facing was about 2 inches wide which seemed awfully skimpy so I made it similar to the front section. Easier to show than tell so here it is.

Just for fun - continuity - I did a bit of color blocking on the bottom of the lining so you can see the bottom band is black to continue that bottom panel.

Looking through my Flickr album I do have more construction pics so I will do another post on some more sewing details, plus this outfit is not complete - one more piece from this Burda pattern collection.

Summary: this pattern is one I kept going back to since I first noticed it, maybe 2 years ago? Once I had the green coating fabric it all came together and I am really happy with it. The colors are my favorites and I think it looks great with jeans or more dressy outfits. Now I am 99% satisfied with the fit and will know for next time to start with a smaller size and go from there. By the way, I took these photos after narrowing the shoulders but before narrowing the sleeves, so you can see they look a bit wide. When I take pics of the second item I will show the better sleeve fit.

I am entering this in the Color-Blocking contest on Pattern Review so you might see it there :).

Thanks for all the great comments on my previous post about coat patterns - as I said, the Pattern Whisperer is all for fun and a good way to discuss a particular category of patterns, and to look for features that make them easy to sew and/or fit.

Up next, I have some dresses I sewed for my friend Heather to post and then I think I will settle down with some easy-peasy knit tops.

Happy sewing,
Beth

After looking at the Tri-Color coat for ages, and finally acquiring the perfect fabric to make it I realized I would still have tons of fabric leftover. I hadn't clicked around to see the rest of the items in the original Burda collection: "Wake up Wool" where the coat first appeared but did so and found another winner. I really like the way they do their patterns in little collections of 5 to 10 patterns. Which I suppose is because their pattern magazine is in the style of a fashion magazine with editorial spreads. Some collections are mostly bonkers, sometimes they have a couple of absolute gems and sometimes they really succeed with most every pattern in the collection looking great and potentially a garment I would want to sew and wear. (and their plus collections are often even better, I give you this example of a recent one: Hotel Bar. Totally glam and gorgeous with one oddball).

That was a long way round to say that I found another pattern in that collection to accompany my tricolor coat. Also a big thank you to everyone for all your wonderful comments on my finished coat. I was sure the color combo would not appeal to many people other than me, so I appreciate all your nice words so much. I have been wearing it a lot! And not shipping it off to anyone. A few readers here and on Pattern Review who requested I do so :) By the way - I did enter into the Color-Blocked contest on Pattern Review, the voting is now open until 12/24.

This is the Wave skirt, Burda 12/2012 # 109. Which is going straight into my small collection of TNT patterns as it is a breeze to sew and fit beautifully. A tiny bit of extra study of the pattern pieces to make sure I got the wavy section right, but otherwise a very nice pattern that I could see adjusting for other things or even as the bottom half of a dress.

What I really liked about this pattern are the darts which give a great fit front and back. Also this pattern calls for fulled loden fabric which I suppose is felted wool? In any case my coating fabric seemed just right. And Bonus! it calls for no hem, which also is something you can do with this type of felted fabric. Of course that means I needed to get the length just right before cutting out. I did that by comparing to one of my other skirts and figured out the total length, which turned out to be similar to the pattern so no change. For size I cut out the size for my hip measure and took in the waist to fit.
In the tech drawing it showed a zipper in the center back but I thought the zip was on the side, and that is how I sewed it. Which actually seems better, so no seam bisecting the contrast wave at the bottom back.

No waistband, I used my method of "waistband-less" skirt making, as I did with this skirt.

Side view. The only slightly tricky bit was making sure that the intersection on the side seams matched up perfectly for the color blocking.

Inside view. I am often asked how I finish lined garments or what treatment I use on the seams. For the most part the answer is none! I don't think a lined wool garment needs any seam finish. For winter weight fabrics serging just adds bulk and to me is mostly a waste of time, (exception made for all items sewn from denim :) It is nice to use on prone-to-.ravel fabrics but otherwise I think not necessary. On a lined garment the lining should look good, but peeling back the onion to see the insides - who cares what it looks like there.

I am not likely to wear any top or sweater tucked in like this but figured I would show how the skirt looks on me and the proportion of the two color sections.

In my previous post with the completed Tri-color coat I said I would post some more construction details so here goes, a bunch of construction pics with some notes. If you like seeing how things are made then this section is for you.

First up: I am an interfacing maniac. Coats need a lot. Or I can rephrase that - coats and jackets should have a lot of interfacing. More than you think. These fabrics were hefty enough that the interfacing was not as necessary as in a lighter wool, but interfacing the various sections allows for invisibly catch stitching down the seam allowances, plus I think the shoulders on a jacket should kind of float, or at least have some substance as opposed to sink and rest in the hollows of the upper body. Does that make sense?

For the intersections of the yoke and the two color sections of the body, having white interfacing on the dark fabrics seemed like a necessity in order to accurately sew those junctions. The coat front on the left is sewn but not pressed, and you can see it is looking good already.

The pink arrow shows where the stitching ended, and then I started up on the other side. I could not see any way to sew this continuously across the yoke and have the seam allowances not all bunched up in the seam. Because you know I am a mad about seam trimming and grading.

Curves need clipping. I clip before grading, just seems easier. Also note all my wax chalk marks designating wrong side of fabric. Once interfacing is applied then it is obvious but oh so easy to apply interfacing to the right side of a piece and then shrieking ensues.
Collar: I put some extra interfacing just in the collar portion as I wanted it to stand up properly. That extra bit is a Shirt-crisp interfacing which I actually find too crisp for shirts (I suppose it is just right for collars on men's dress shirts) anyway I ordered it ages ago and never used it. But it pays to have a selection of interfacings. Only applied in the body of the collar, I trimmed away the seam allowance portions.

Here is the collar plus collar/front facing sewn onto the coat. I think I took this photo to show the color block seam matching which seemed critical to me at the time. After bothering to create the color blocked facing I guess it was important to sew it accurately :).

A few notes on pressing.

In front is the clapper but the real star in this image is my sleeve board which has convertible sections and the most used one is this long pointy piece. It is ideal for pressing long seams and front facings.

Once the long center fronts are pressed open, trimmed and graded, then pressed over the hand stitching begins. I think you either love hand sewing or consider it a major pain. I love doing it. I generally hand sew all linings into coats instead of bagging the lining. I like the control of hand sewing, usually I create my own lining pieces on the fly, and I hand stitch all the coat or jacket facings down to the coat body so actually bagging the lining is not even possible.

This is the long center front of the coat. These thick fabrics wanted to pop open a bit no matter how much pressing is done, so I first took a long running stitch with silk thread along the inside (see pink arrows) to keep the front facing flat.

Then I tacked down the entire facing with loose stitches to the coat body. Now it will not shift or move and the coat front will stay flat, no chance the facing/lining will roll outward.

Lastly, the lining sewn up and ready to be hand stitched into the coat. I straightened out the curved yoke on the lining pieces, easier to sew. Also added the center back pleat, and continued the lining up to the collar as I usually do (seen here on this coat post)

So final result - coat, lining, skirt. A color-blocking extravaganza. In case you are wondering why I did the skirt colors reverse of the coat - I just thought I would get more wear from the skirt being the dark navy. So various tops would go with. If it were the green it is a bit limiting.

Whew this is a long post! and so many pictures. But I figured I took 'em so why not show 'em. Thank you for reading and commenting all year long - I really appreciate it and find so many wonderful new to me blogs to read via your comments.

If you happen to look at my Instagram you will know that I have continued my color blocking obsession to one more item which I also have been wearing a lot. A winter dress in wool knit - comfy and warm. After that I'm turning to sewing easy-peasy knit tops and that is about all for 2015. However I have lots more things to blog about and perhaps even a year-end review. Which I find strangely enjoyable despite serving no purpose other than to point out to myself all the patterns I have bought and not sewed up.

Happy Holidays to everyone, and I hope Santa brings you lots of sewing goodies!

Merry Christmas, Beth

It seems only fitting that my last post and garment of 2015 was made using a Burda pattern. I'm planning to do a year end wrap up but for now I will predict that one theme will be my discovery of Burda patterns. I will always find something to sew among Vogue patterns but now I add Burda to my list of possibilities. However - either Burda envelope patterns or PDF downloads. I just can't deal with tracing from the magazine.
Onward to this dress, Burda 6853 envelope pattern. A Burda young pattern :) I don't know what it says about me but I find a lot of the ones I like are in the young category. Anyway - I saw a review of this pattern on Pattern Review and it looked like a great winter dress, plus I could envision using up an odd piece of fabric that was too small to make anything substantial but too much to be a scrap that I would toss out.

A quick picture right before Christmas Dinner. I think I can hear someone telling me to come back in the house as dinner was almost ready!

I thought looking at the pattern thinking that it was separate pieces in version C, but actually it is the same as the top of version A and what is shown as lace in the pattern photo is an overlay. And it is only in the front. I thought about revising the pattern to make separate upper bodice pieces for front and back, but discarded that idea as too much work. So I just made the pattern as designed, and put the red part as an overlay in the front only. For the grey part I had a remnant of fabric from this dress I made last year for Heather. It's a really nice wool boucle so it made for a warm winter dress which is just what I was looking for.

The cranberry red ponte is leftover from this dress. I left out the zipper as the wool knit is quite stretchy and the neck opening was large enough to get my head through. I did lower the neckline a bit in the front, it was really high, like a crew neck t-shirt which is not comfortable in a dress.

A few fit notes. It has princess seams so I took it in and shaped the side seams a bit. I used the Burda size 38 with some increase at the hips. You can see the difference from the pattern, my skirt portion starts higher than their version. I cut out the upper portions of the dress and sewed them together, then played around with a piece of the red fabric while wearing the upper portion to decide where to attach the skirt. I'm glad I did because the bottom band hit me at an odd spot and made me look short. (shorter).

I didn't line the dress but made a facing that mimics the front yoke, using a knit lining fabric.
Note that this pattern is not designed for knits, although it worked perfectly. But it does have an elbow dart in the sleeve - which is kind of noticeable on the dress form and not something you see in a knit sleeve. It bugs me a little bit that the upper back is all grey. But it doesn't bug me too much as I have worn this dress quite a few times in the last two weeks!

Christmas flew by and now the new year is almost here. I hope everyone had a great holiday and I wish you a Happy New Year. I have already started on my newest project and am thinking about taking a sewing moratorium in January - if I can exercise some self control. Just to get a bunch of other project done around here. We shall see.
Or not. and then start on all the other ideas rolling around in my head.

Either way - Happy Sewing to all and here's to a great 2016 in every corner of your life!

Beth

Hi all and Happy New Year! I am not one for introspection when it comes to what I sew, nor am I a planner in any way. It constantly fascinates me to see all the list making this time of year as to what will be sewn. That is so not how I operate. Whatever whim or new pattern comes my way is mostly what I sew, with a few basics or a general thought about some theme - such as needing to tackle pants, or wanting a certain color jacket to round out my wardrobe. I can say that the past few years I have not bought a lot of fabric at retail, whether in shops or online. Perhaps 50% of my fabric sewn is from things I bought as estate sales, sewing guild fabric sales or given to me. It is just so satisfying to rummage through the pieces of fabric and then take the challenge of whatever yardage length and then make it up into something I am thrilled to wear. The low investment generally increases the sewing satisfaction for my frugal side.

In fact some of my best things have been sewn with fabric from this very category. Which brings me to my exciting end-of-year news.

I won the Color Blocked Contest at Pattern Review. I'm so thrilled and Thank You to everyone who read my review and voted for my Tri-Color Coat. Here is the link to the post for this coat.

The prize is a $ 100 gift certificate to Mood Fabrics so now I have to choose something special. The first things that come to mind are the ever elusive pretty border print to make a special dress, or a substantial knit to make the perfect all-purpose travel blazer jacket that would look sharp and stand up to being scrunched in a travel bag. We shall see.

How about a little analysis to close out 2015? As per the the last couple of years I have used Excel for good not evil (I first made the sewing pie charts for my 2013 sewing look back and I see them all over now - could I have started a trend or just absorb the idea from somewhere else?)

Starting with items sewn in 2015, a total of 30 items sewn for me or a friend/family member.

I think this is fewer than previous years, and that is probably a good thing. I spend a LOT of time sewing the previous year and this year realized there were a few things neglected (garden - partially due to drought, and gym time - partially due to laziness) as well as other things I just wanted to do with my time. Plus closet space is becoming non-existent. I have a lot of stuff - most of it dear to me and not ready to be parted with. So sewing new things becomes a bit silly.

Also I surprised to see how many dresses I sewed - when I have so many already. I blame new pattern releases for the dresses - they look so pretty and fun to sew that I find at least one a season completely irresistible.

As for pattern brands, not a lot of news there. Well actually - Burda is tied with Vogue patterns if you count PDF magazine and envelope patterns. As a brand, Burda has really grown on me this past year and I think their coats are the best for all size ranges. I am still a fan of envelope patterns generally, and if a pattern has various items in the envelope, or variations on the item then I think even more highly of it. Such as a pattern with a jacket/skirt combo, or several variations on a top. I rarely buy a pattern that is just for one item. I think that is one reason why I rarely sew indie patterns as they are often just one item. This year I might try a few more.

Another statistic that didn't merit a pie chart is Pattern Repeat: fully 50% of my items sewn were from patterns I have used previously. Which I think is a lot - and probably will hold steady next year.
I just cut out a blouse this weekend from my trusty Simplicity shirt pattern (S2339 Amazing fit shirt pattern) which I have adjusted to have a hidden buttonhole placket (possible how-to if anyone is interested). Hidden buttonhole plackets are a secret weapon on a silk blouse where you are a bit afraid of the quality of machine stitched buttonholes - especially on silk - and who is not?

Let's get down to the top 5 favorites of 2015. In no particular order. And I will add a number 6 favorite right here which is the Tri-Color coat, shown above. Which you might be sick of looking at now but I am not - pattern/fabric/color love and it is my absolute favorite thing I made all year!

I have linked to each original post so there are more photos and some construction details on each item there.

Plum wool shawl collar coat from Burda. I made this at the end of last winter and with our crazy climate wore it not at all. However once winter set in here I have worn it a LOT and it so warm and cozy. Because it is freezing here! At least to me. 42℉ in the morning as I was out shopping. Brrrr! for us Californians. In fact yesterday I was doing some early morning post-holiday shopping/exchanging and in two different shops the saleswomen said " love your jacket, so pretty" or some variation on that. You know how gratifying for strangers to compliment our sewing. Or at least they don't know it is home sewn :) And I cannot resist saying "thank you, I made it" After all why not?

Burda 6840 envelope pattern plaid blouse. This was a pattern purchase whim and it turned out to be fantastic. With a hidden buttonhole placket :) and options for a bow neckline blouse which I might try one of these days. Fabric bought at a garage sale, super soft and vintage cotton plaid which is a dream to wear and saw regular rotation last winter.

Vogue 8904 the Shingle dress, a pattern repeat, this time in ponte knit. This pattern was a favorite the first time I made it but I knew it would be better in a slightly beefier knit. I saw this fabric at Stone Mountain and knew it was exactly how I had envisioned this originally. It is so nice to find the exact fabric that you have in mind and make up something that is just perfect. I wore this a ton in the summer/fall and it will be worn again a lot come next spring.

Next is another dress, made for wear on vacation, McCall's 6544 in blue cotton batik. You can't see in this photo but this is a vintage pattern from the 70's which has a lot of really cute details. And underscored my belief that a lot of modern patterns have simplified the construction so much that nice finishing details are lost, and the style suffers due to that. Anyway - I love the color of this fabric and will be wearing this again when the weather heats up.

Another project where the fabric and style made a happy combination. The Alameda dress from Pauline Alice patterns. I love this outfit and wore it as shown, with top and skirt, and then wore the skirt separately with a white top. Very fun skirt to wear with the flounce, and pockets! I think this skirt will be a pattern repeat for the upcoming year, it is calling to me for a denim version. Pauline Alice makes really nice patterns, definitely my favorite of the independent pattern companies. This outfit uses another fabric I bought at Stone Mountain, not for a specific project but just because it was unusual and I liked the print.

Honorable Mention: The Quart Coat, also from Pauline Alice Patterns that I made for my friend Jaime. More details and views on the post for this one. Another project where the choice of fabric I think made the garment really special. And caused many many minutes of checking and double checking when cutting and sewing. I do not recommend plaid for this coat unless you are really a wizard with plaid matching or enjoy tearing your hair out, ha ha. But in the end it worked out and I am so happy with it.

So that is 2015, all done. Up next, I am sewing a silk blouse and probably no more coats for quite a while :) Perhaps more pants in my future.

Plus I am ordering some new rose bushes so I really should turn my attention outside. But it is so chilly out there and so warm in my sewing room!

Thank you to everyone who reads and/or comments. I have said it the past few years but it always bears repeating, that meeting and getting to know other people who have a passion for sewing has been the very best part of writing a blog. It is so wonderful to have friends all around the world that share this interest and I know that while for the most part it is virtual but if we were to meet in person the feeling would be the same.

Happy New Year to you and happy sewing in 2016,
Beth

Happy New Year! Thank you so much for all your nice comments on my year end wrap up, on my recent sewing output and most of all thank you for all the congratulations on my Pattern Review contest win.
My sewing is always veering off in different directions, from churning out wardrobe basics to immersing myself in coat-making or tackling some difficult fabric. I have no idea where my mood will take me this year - it probably depends on what gems I find at some out of the way estate sale. Whichever way I go, I appreciate your readership along the way.

Now that I have coat making out of the way - at least for this winter, I can return to something I finished in late November.

This is Burda 6946 in rayon jersey. I bought the pattern a while ago, maybe in 2014 and had been meaning to use it for a dress for my friend Heather, and among her haul of fabric she purchased in NY last summer was this print.

It is a very distinctive print so you probably can't see the lines of the pattern but it has some really interesting pattern pieces, and as one of the Burda Plus envelope patterns, was really easy to fit. I think if you are in the size range (Burda European size 44-56) in particular if your bust measure fits in that range then these Burda patterns are really good. Both in the envelope patterns and the magazine/pdf patterns, there is just about any style and some really outstanding choices. I know there are some wacky ones - they always throw in a few zingers but they do that for any collection.

Here is the pattern envelope. You still can't really see the design lines because they have also used a rather bold print.

See? Slightly unusual with those two piece fronts, and then sleeves that are also also two pieces, and attach via a modified raglan seam.

A better look at it on the dress form where those quasi-princess seams are more apparent.

It probably doesn't show but the two piece sleeve seam is sewn last, so you sew the whole front and the sleeve front, then the back including the sleeve back, and then join front and back up the whole sleeve and shoulder seam. Clever, I thought. Also lots of adjustment possibilities, for bicep adjustment, take in or out the sleeve circumference, take up at the shoulder if needed.

Heather mentioned that she liked long sleeves on this type of jersey wrap dress, and wanted to be able to push them up - but mentioned how she found it annoying that they never stay pushed up. I know just what she means. She said I wish they could be permanently scrunched up that way. So I had a tiny light bulb moment and did a bit of ruching with elastic at the bottom of the sleeve so they gather up and create that sleeve scrunched up look. I put a piece of paper behind the sleeve so you can see it a bit better. Also this fabric, at first I confess I didn't care for it but it did grow on me. The background is a burgundy-brown shade with cream, ivory and blue ovals.

This fabric - aaaagh - reads like a stripe. Not the easiest to work with for a dress with curved pieces but I did the best I could. And told Heather no more buying fabric without sending me a text image! Ok only slightly kidding there but she bought another one that is a very specific directional pattern that I still can't decide what to do with.

How about some pattern adjustments? Not all that many on this pattern, I used the size than corresponded to her measurements and for the most part it worked will. However - I think a V-neckline wrap is just never gonna cooperate with someone with, shall we say, an ample chest. Just a fact - that V-neckline wants to open and this is a business/office wear type of dress so a little adjustment was in order.

This is the upper bodice pattern piece and I did the adjustment that I very often do on wrap tops, which is to change the curve of the V-neckline to add at the center front. The center front line a front bodice piece that is a wrap is the guideline, and if you do a tissue fit or make a muslin be sure to draw in that line, and then pin the pattern pieces together there. See below, the Center Front is noted. I needed to raise it up about 1 inch at the center front, so I played around with the addition on the pattern piece to give a graceful curve on the two overlapping sections. It might look like a weird segment that was added but scroll back up and see that it brings the lowest part of the V to a perfectly daytime appropriate spot. I have done two posts on the Craftsy blog about adjusting V-necklines, this post is for a variety of adjustments including this type. This post talks about adding length to the front of a wrap bodice and also adjusting the center front curve.

I did a full lining in the dress, using the knit fabric that I have used for a lot of knit dresses. I thought about leaving the lining off the sleeves, but with the raglan that seemed more trouble than it is worth and this way it gives a nicer finish on the inside. The lining takes the place of any neckline facings which I don't like. As you can see I made sure to turn and under stitch the neckline edge so the black is not at all visible. Having a lining in a knit dress makes it so easy to wear, and you can wear tights without any extra layers since the lining is more slippery. Every time I show this someone asks, the fabric I use for all knit linings is call Jet Set Knit , I buy it at Joann Fabrics and it doesn't cost much, comes in a lot of colors although I mostly use black, white or the ivory colors. And it washes and presses really easily. So not very fancy but it does the job. Also in the Dancewear section of the knits you can find some other knit fabrics that really are linings, like you would use in leotards or gymnastics/skating costumes, and I sometimes use those as well. This fabric is 100% poly but it doesn't feel clammy. I wouldn't use it in something designed for hot climates - although I used it in this dress and it is great. So maybe I would.

The one thing that many might not like about this dress is that it is a faux-wrap, so their is a side zipper. The front sections actually cross all the way over and are attached into the side seams. So the only way to get in/out is to have the side seam zipper as the waist is fitted. Which made more work, with the lining etc. but gives such a nice shape to the final dress. Here is the zipper, you can't even see it :). Also considering the print and the various shaped pattern pieces I think I did an OK job on making the "sort-of" stripes of the oval print match.

Since this is not really a wrap but a faux wrap, per request I put a snap at the center front just for insurance. It is a bit tricky figuring out where to sew the snap parts so I have my method which might make no sense to anyone but I will show it anyway.

I pin the dress wrap closed just as I want it to be. I do this all with long pins, then take it off (either the person or myself and mark with thread tracing. I mark the exact center front, and then diagonal lines where edges overlap. You can see where that knot in red thread is showing where the part underneath is in relation to the upper layer. It is keeping these angles in the same orientation that allows you to sew on the snap parts on the upper and under layer so that it lays nicely when the snap is done up.

Another look at Heather in her dress. I think we will repeat this in the spring in the short sleeve version.

And oh, that lawn is sad. Had to let it go for the most part due to the drought. and now it is growing a little bit in weeds and patchy bits. I confess - I bought some bulbs today, tulips and daffodils. Very late to put them in the ground but they will be OK. I just can't resist the colors!

Tomorrow we are suppose to have a big storm (yay!) so I think some sewing will be happening. Up next I am finishing a silk shirt and then no idea, I'm toying with trying another pair of pants. Or perhaps some napping. It seems like that kind of Saturday :)

Happy weekend sewing, Beth

Well that is kind of a random title, "What is up with that?" But I keep a piece of paper on my desk and as the weeks go by I jot down topics that are bouncing around in my head or I come across in my sewing web surfing. And the page for this edition of Random Threads had a bunch of nouns with the words "What is up with that?" scrawled next to them. I guess I am in a questioning mood.

Randomly speaking of questioning - I happened to listen to a podcast where the author Gretchen Rubin was interviewed, she has a book out called "Better than Before" and her own podcast. Along with that there was a quiz you could take to determine your personality type (I defy you to resist those stupid quizzes when you are killing time or procrastinating) So as I was standing at the stove, sautéing some onions I tap, tap, tapped on my phone and determined that I am a questioner. Which I could have told them from the get-go. The point of knowing your personality type is to better able to understand motivations, do things that you want and generally be happier. At least that is what I gathered from the brief listen while dinner was cooking. I think I will give her podcast a try, who isn't trying to create new habits when the calendar turns over a new year?

Also speaking of podcasts - I somehow came across a British podcast, Answer Me This. And have binged listened about a 1/3 of the episodes on iTunes, now pacing myself through the rest. So readers in the UK, are you a fan of this one? I find it hilarious. Silly, stupid, smart all rolled up in one.

Back to sewing.

Let's talk new patterns. For the most part I am ho hum on the new pattern releases and if past history is any guide then in about 3-4 months (when the weather matches the pattern release) I will find a few Vogue patterns that I simply must have. But for now the latest release was interesting but no show-stoppers. The one pattern that I really like is by my beloved Donna Karan for Vogue. However I fear it would be a doozy to alter to fit for my 5'3" frame. But I will probably give it a go when sleeveless dress weather is here. It RAINED today! yes we are getting storms, rain, wet weather. Hallelujah for us in drought stricken California. What does rain mean? weeds.......oh I am so fickle.

Also looking more at that dress above I think it depends heavily on standing at that nonchalant/slightly fierce pose. Maybe in real life it would look like a droopy mess. But as I said, will probably give it a try.

Simplicity Pattern website - WHAT is up with that? wow that is a mess. I cannot stand their website revamp or whatever the hell they have done with it. Tried to make it more e-commerce-y or Pinterest-y. So many websites revise and try to emulate the Pinterest look with lots of big photos that scroll past but then the actual utility has vanished. I typically went to their site to look for patterns, use the search functionality, and now the search is a jumbled mess. So bad. Makes me not want to bother with their brands which is kind of a shame.

Sewing on TV: do you ever watch sewing shows on TV? Does anyone watch broadcast TV? Here in the bay area we happened to have quite a few PBS stations and they often show many different sewing shows. I received a new TiVo Bolt for Christmas (Oh, Tivo** how I love you and have for many many years - can I say I was an early adopter, I have one old Tivo with lifetime service that is more than 12 years old. which is kind of like a 20 year old dog. As we have had the hard drive croak on other Tivo units but that original one keeps on working. I probably just jinxed it by writing this). Back to my new Tivo: using keyword search for sewing - so many shows and so set up recording on them. Nancy Ziemen, Sew It All TV, Fit to Stitch with Peggy Sagers. Kind of surprising how many there are. Some are useless but others are interesting and every once in a while I have learned some fantastic tip that was really useful. I'm a big believer in taking in information from a lot of different sources, be it a book, podcast, blog, tv, video class. You just never know where the light bulb moment will be found.

The Fold Line: a new community website for stitchers, with pattern reviews, forums, user profiles. I did sign up, looked around and have maybe been back once or twice. It seems like a good idea but perhaps not getting any traction? My impression is that people are too scattered to coalesce around a new site, so as much as sewers want a Ravelry for sewing, I don't think it has yet appeared. What do you think? I'm not really a participator when it comes to websites or forums. I do put up pattern reviews on Patternreview.com, because I get a lot out of the reviews of others and it seems only fair to contribute my reviews. But as for forums, discussion board etc. I don't see how anyone finds the time.

Pantone Color(s) of the Year: in a word - blah. so weird. Yes, it is a marketing gimmick but these are really goofy. In fact separately they are OK but when you look at them together they each make the other seem more bland. Ok to be fair, unless the color is turquoise or maybe coral I will always think it is a little bland. Are you going to run out and find some Rose Quartz fabric? Please tell me no.

Imminent demise of the Big 4 pattern companies? Did you read a blog post on SewMamaSew by Abby Glassenberg. She spoke about shifts in sewing industry trends. Most of it wasn't something I had an opinion one way or another, however she sort of predicted that the indie pattern share of sewing patterns will win out over the established traditional Big 4. I think she is out of her mind there. There is a market for certain independent patterns with the accompanying instructional tools and community, however my sense is that once you venture past beginning level or want to explore more complex garments, then the larger companies have the depth to product that product. Vogue, Burda, Marfy, these pattern companies by and large do a good job in producing patterns that a home sewer can use to recreate a runway look. I think her point of view is so far from garment sewing that the conclusions make no sense. Also there have always been independent pattern companies. Businesses come and go, some last for decades and some go out of business, some are absorbed by larger entities. The sewing pattern industry is no different.

A mystery to me: I love the look of this coat, Butterick 6244. Well actually, I love the the look of the coats made by these two. Lori of Girls in the Garden, her version here. It looks so stylish on her and color is such a great choice for a neutral go with anything coat. The other is Margo, who made it in red. Scrumptious. They are both perfection. But there is no lining! how does that work? Isn't it itchy? and I think it would stick to whatever you are wearing under. I will admire from afar but know those things would drive me crazy if I had it. Also both their versions are way better than the pattern envelope!

Well that is about all for my Random Threads tonight. I didn't even get to my questions about "Tidying Up". Have you Kondo-ized your fabric stash? or the sock drawer? what is it about the socks? It gives me joy to have my socks jumbled up in the drawer. I could care less about their organization. And don't throw away your old photos - or your hammer. You might need it :)

Some sewing going on - as I might have mentioned I am trying to cut back for a while on sewing. With success, in that I have only made one item since Jan 1. Which is not this top, actually finished before Jan 1. It is a mostly McCalls 7046 t-shirt with the ruched sides, made smaller to fit better, and then the collar of the Sewaholic Renfrew top grafted on it (and adjusted to fit the neck opening. Super soft and cozy knit, in the fabric closet a good few years. Maybe Fabric.com? I used to buy from them but have not in several years. Anyway - I actually have a hot pink cashmere cardigan that matches exactly, which I had not worn in ages. But presto - cozy winter outfit. Hmm. what else is in that fabric closet?

Sneak peek - just finished a silk blouse - I mentioned it has a hidden buttonhole placket which is something I developed (copied from a RTW blouse) so I will do a how-to post. It is surprisingly easy!

That's all for now. Happy almost weekend sewing, Beth

** TiVo - just in case, since I was blathering on about it and it is something you have never heard of. Do they have Tivo in Europe? Australia? not sure. It is maybe the original ? digital video recorder, basically a computer that records TV. What makes Tivo different is the interface - it is super easy to use, works really well, just a really well designed product that is often smarter than we are (ha ha) and now this new version Tivo Bolt is very tiny - like the size of a hardback book, and record/finds both broadcast and streaming. and you can watch on your computer in other rooms. Basically I will be able to stay in and sew until I run out of fabric. JOKING!

This one could be subtitled - Silk blouse: The practice version. Not really a muslin, with this very lovely fabric, but more of a practice version for a solid color silk charmeuse in a rich teal green that I really want to get just right. So I have completed a luscious silk blouse that very much says spring. While there are a few daffodils just about to bloom - spring is not yet here so it will go into the wardrobe until the season is right for a white and coral print. Also the question of what to wear it with. I showed it to my fried Alice and she immediately said "white jeans!" Which is perfectly fine if you are 5'8" but I don't quite know about that look on me. More on white jeans later in the post.

Back to the shirt. I made almost the same version of this a while ago - scrolling though my old posts it was 2011. That long! In silk and with hidden buttonholes. However I was never 100% happy with how that turned out. Even though I wear it a lot and it goes so well with other items in my repertoire. Since then I have made this pattern 6 times (one of those is hot off the sewing machine last night). But for the upcoming teal silk I wanted to do a little fit adjustment, thus a slight rework of the pattern and a test using this busy silk print.

As for fit adjustments, in previous versions I wasn't happy with where the bust dart landed. I think one version was too low and another too high. For this version I adjusted it a bit - lower by 1/2 inch I think and it came out perfectly. In other versions I have converted the bust dart to shoulder gathers, and in a knit version I converted the bust dart to easing it into the side seam which works quite well in a knit. I will include links below to all the various versions.

This picture was taken around 5pm on a very dark and rainy day, so just a quick dash outside. But rainy does not equal gloomy - not around here. Things are green and growing. We are SO hoping that the drought will be a thing of the past, but a few rainy months will not fix our water problems by a long stretch. (Don't get me started on water management in my state - such a big population, huge agriculture industry and total disregard for this serious issue on so many fronts, such as changing our mindset on usage for landscaping or lack of infrastructure to capture the rainfall. Anyway - all rainstorms are welcome now.

Fit, not bad, right? Although I think it is too long and I am pondering shortening by just an inch or so, however I will wait until I figure out what to wear it with.

A few construction details. I have a burgundy color silk charmeuse blouse that I bought at Ann Taylor about 10? years ago which I really love and that is where I saw this type of hidden buttonhole placket. As it was hanging in my sewing room I noticed that it had a subtle angle above the upper button, such that the neckband actually didn't meet but finished about an inch apart. Does that make sense?

See how the center fronts overlap and then don't quite at the top of the center front? That is the subtle angle. It also required taking length out of the collar stand and collar. It's a nice effect for a blouse that you are never going to button at the neck but I am not sure I would bother again.
After I make the teal green silk blouse I will do a post on how to create the hidden buttonhole placket, as I was sewing and taking these photos I realized it is a bit hard to see with this busy print.

Here's a look at the buttonhole placket, it is all finished and just ready to be flipped over and then stitched down. The buttonholes are done, and then they end up behind the actual front of the blouse, and are connected to the front facing. The whole thing is basically a 4-layer sandwich and you just have to keep track of where each layer is, and then also place it on the blouse front in the right spot so the buttonholes close across the bust etc. Also I used my favorite edge technique, which used to get so much traffic to my blog (now eclipsed by my "how I hem sleeves" post which is my most pinned post) What is a popular post is something I find interesting/entertaining and if I knew those posts would be read so much I would have done a better job with nicer photos! oh well.

A better look at that clean edged facing. Basically you stitch it together, right side of fabric to right side of interfacing, then trim the seam and clip curves as need, then flip and press, taking care to get a crisp edge.

For a change I did french seams on the side seams as well as the sleeves, but used the serger on the armhole. I am not at all a purist when it comes to seam finishing - in fact rather lazy about it. One of these days in a Random Threads post I will have to ramble on with my thoughts about the inside of garments.

And viola, hidden buttonhole placket!

I am also on a roll with finding buttons in my button box. People have given me so many buttons in the last few years. Anyone who cleans out their relative's home seems to want to present me with one of those old cookie tins filled with buttons or other sewing room paraphernalia so it seems silly to go out and buy new buttons. Plus the pleasure of finding a matching set is well, unmatched!
That's the latest on my sort of test version. And I bought this fabric a couple of months ago at the local ASG stash sale for around $6. Score! Plus I have about 1.3 yards left which is just enough to make a sleeveless top. Which I have a feeling I would actually wear more often. Similar to this top which was also derived from this same Simplicity pattern. The pattern that just keeps on giving.

Shirts made from this same Simplicity pattern. And I haven't even mentioned the placket on most of the other versions, I have never used the original sewn on buttonhole placket, I should show you how I make the all in one placket that looks like the sewn-on.
blue silk charmeuse mentioned above
black dot print cotton lawn version
navy blue plaid flannel version
green polka dot knit version
cotton poplin paisley version, bust darts converted to shoulder gathers
today's coral and white silk version
and a cotton plaid version just finished and soon to be posted.
Ok that's 7. Talk about value - for a Simplicity Amazing Fit pattern I bought for $ 0.99.
Even at the regular price it would now be a bargain.

Speaking of bargains - Joanns (the slightly evil empire - although I shouldn't complain, their fabric is mostly crap but they do carry good linings, sell patterns for a pittance and are open until 9 pm. So, Ok not complaining any more)
anyway - Burda envelope patterns are starting to show up in their sale ads for $ 2.49 which is fantastic. So I did buy a few this week.

the one on the left tickled my color block obsession, and I am trying to find some interesting yet casual fabrics so I could wear it jeans, maybe some kind of denim and knit combo - maybe including the leather waist element. The one on the right, I have had a hankering (is that a funny American word to some readers - meaning a craving, desire, itch, yen for something) anyway a thought to make a shawl collar blazer. Sort of easier than a standard lapel. But sometimes I think it looks a bit plain or frumpy. Bought the pattern anway.

And the blouse on the left, looks quite nice for a floaty summer top. The Simplicity on the right, as soon as I saw that pattern envelope I wanted that exact denim dress. I think we will see a lot of those once the winter retreats.

So that's the latest. For this weekend's sewing I might do some pattern experimentation - play around with some that have been in my stack of interesting possibilities.
And otherwise enjoy the rain on the roof!

Happy weekend sewing, Beth

oh ya, what about the white jeans? they look great in the summer but I always feel like they get dirty the minute I put them on, I am sure to spill some coffee or even something like an ink pen or a lipstick becomes a hazard in my hands. but I might give them a try.

And a garden photo ! another Yay! Some bulbs are starting to appear and I think with these showers it will be a good show this year. This is such an unusual camelia, the flowers are huge, like dinnerplate dahlias. With ruffley edges, bright yellow stamens and a lot of sticky nectar. Lots of bees and a few hummingbirds. Another good sight:)

That title pretty much encapsulates my sewing of late. I don't know why I am making so many shirts lately, although a shirt is a reasonably quick item to sew. And very satisfying to do all that precise work. I have this Simplicity pattern adjusted to perfection (S2339). Plus I have a file folder filled with alternate pattern pieces, to rotate the darts into gathers, or choose from various buttonhole plackets. This might be the closest I have ever come to creating a TNT pattern. While I have made some dress patterns and a few skirts over and over, this is the one pattern that I would reliably use to design something new. I have a yearning for a shirtdress for spring, and even bought the famous McCalls shirtdress pattern (MC 6696) however the other day the idea popped into my head to just use this shirt pattern and create a skirt. Hmmm.
So shirt details first and then the Bootstrap jeans custom size pattern details.

Back to this new shirt. Since it is plaid I decided to use my version where the horizontal bust darts are converted into shoulder gathers. Here's a link to a shirt with that detail, and here's a link to a post I did on Craftsy showing how to convert the dart to gathers.

This is one of the few fabrics that I have ever purchased at Fabrix in San Francisco on Clement St. When I lived in the city I would stop in there once in while but now I rarely go to this store. I think Shams finds some treasures there periodically. It's one of those places that are hit or miss but lots of bargains. Although the parking in that neighborhood is insanely difficult. So it has been marinating on my fabric rack for a while - maybe 4-5 years. Which is unusual as I don't keep stuff all that long but it finally made it onto my cutting table.

The main reason I decided to use the shoulder gathers instead of the dart is for the plaid matching. Which worked a treat and I'm quite satisfied if I do say so myself :) No pesky bust dart to throw off the side seam matching, thus the sleeves are matched too. Score!

That is a scorch mark on the side of my dress form (another garage sale purchase) I think it got too close to someone's wall heater in its previous life.

What am I looking at? Bees! so many honeybees already in the garden. Swarming all over this camellia. Which is the only one of its type in my garden, so sticky with nectar that the bees love it. And of course in most all the pictures my front button alignment is off a teensy bit. Oh that makes me crazy.

But here it looks OK. The buttons were also in my button box. I don't think I would have picked these particular ones out if I had been in the store choosing buttons for this shirt, but I had plenty, enough for shirt front and cuffs so it seemed like a good reuse.

A few touches of bias.

I received this sweater as a Christmas gift, so that is mostly what prompted me to use this fabric for a shirt. Also why I tend to make shirtsleeves a bit on the long side, so I can flip up the cuffs when I am wearing a long sleeve sweater, just a habit. The colors are not exactly the same, but I think complementary. So far I have not worn either piece despite finishing about two weeks ago - maybe tomorrow.

Now for the Bootstrap Fashion Patterns jeans adventure.
To sum up the experience - I am impressed!
I have sewed a Bootstrap Fashion pattern previously, a dress and the fit was very good. And since pants are my achilles heel of fitting - I figured why not try their new custom jeans pattern? Actually I am not at all interested in making jeans per se. I have lots of ready-to-wear jeans and I just find it way easier to buy them than to source the just right denim - do all that topstitching - tweak the fit etc. So jeans sewing - a phrase that my grandmother used to use comes to mind - I just can't be bothered. But pants in general - those I would like to sew more often. And a well fitting jeans pattern I could use to make pants in other fabrics, like cotton sateen for summer or corduroy for winter. On Bootstrap there are 3 different custom jeans patterns, listed in their Indie designer section. All by the same designer Vado, she created a skinny jeans pattern, an at-waist bootcut pattern and a loose boyfriend jeans style.
Skinny jeans are super cute on lots of people but I just never feel right in them - and having a very long rise a higher waist jean usually fits better so I picked that one.

As usual with Bootstrap patterns you enter your measurements for a custom fit. I was pretty exact with my measurements as I wanted to see how they came out, what kind of ease etc was designed in the pattern.

For the knee width I used the measurements from an existing pair of jeans that I have, also the leg opening (which is the bottom hem opening). Thinking about it later you could change those to obtain straight leg or any other variation. Much like their other patterns where you can choose belly shape (which I like to categorize as choosing anywhere between flat-abs up to 2nd trimester) on the jeans pattern it's not belly shape but you can indicate the shape of your bum. Useful! I picked average but for next time I might choose curvy. The other change I will make next time (oh yeah, there will be a next time) is to increase the waist measurement entry. My waist is rather high, so my smallest natural waist point is probably 2 inches higher than where the top of the pants landed. I think if I add about 2 or 3 inches then the fit will be better around that spot and I can always take them in if needed.
Now for the result. I chose no-stretch for this version as I had a piece of 100% cotton corduroy to use for the test. Also I thought a non-stretch fabric would be a better indicator of fit. You can select fabric type, no stretch or various %'s of stretch which is clever.

Not bad huh? The part that really amazed me was that the knee was in the right place, the length was correct, the back rise was just about right and the fit around the thighs felt like ready to wear jeans.

In the interest of science - sewing science :) I am putting these fairly awkward photos of my rear view up here. You can see the waist is a bit tight but in the right spot. I think the pockets are a bit oversized and low, I don't like jeans pockets to be at all on the thigh but that is easily changed. I left off the belt loops for this test version. Although maybe I will leave them off future versions depending on the fabric. On the other hand I wear belts a lot. Buying jeans/pants to fit my bum means the waist is so often too big. Perhaps it's time to fix that.

Front view.

In the front rise I think there is a bit too much length, generally pants that fit me best have a lower front and then are higher at the back waist. Also I think I used a too long zipper which messes up the front a bit. These were not ever gonna be real pants (something I would wear out of the house) but I figured maybe usable, but then I went and cut a hole in the front under the zipper. So no, not wearable now.

That's the scoop on my Bootstrap fashion jeans experiment. Getting very near success. I think I will try another pattern, with the changes I noted about and also use a 1% or 2% stretch fabric. Because walking around in those corduroy pants made me realize how much I love a little bit of lycra.

Earlier this week I started another silk blouse - a version with the hidden buttonhole placket as several people left comments on my previous post that they would like to see how to do it. That will be coming up soon and it gave me an idea for a Craftsy post as well. (lately I am coming up blank on topics for my Craftsy blog posts - any suggestions would be welcome :) Do you read the Craftsy sewing blog? Some interesting stuff there. Where I have really learned some nice tips and tricks are by reading their other blog subcategories - cooking, gardening, photography are the ones I find useful.

So Super Bowl Sunday is just about over - despite having zero interest in either team it's fun to watch especially since it was here in the bay area. It has been madness all week. The city was crazy!
Also this happened today. Yep, spring is here. Although we are seriously hoping for more - more - more rain. My new roses need it!

Happy Sunday sewing, Beth

Still an extravaganza of shirt sewing going on here, this latest one using the same pattern (why change a good thing) but this version is silk crepe de chine, in a lovely teal green color. I am trying to sew with perfection as this is the type of thing that stays in my wardrobe for ages, a solid color silk blouse is such a great item. Also I am doing the hidden buttonhole placket down the front - so stay tuned in the near future for a comprehensive post on how to do that.

But today's title is Random Threads - so here are a few of my random topic notes. And keep reading if you like 50's vintage - a peek at one of my treasures lower down in the post.

Hemming RTW jeans - are you like me and need to lop off a good 3 to 8 inches depending on the style? I always wonder who they are made for and then I talk with taller friends who complain about too-short RTW jeans. Something for everyone (to be bothered by). I have a process which might seem a bit convoluted but you know, shrinkage, ha. Anyway I usually wash jeans immediately, and let them hang dry, then press and try them on with various heel heights, decided on a hem length. and then just tack the hem well enough so it stays but can't be seen on the right side. You can see here that the hem allowance is tacked to the side seams and just a bit in center front and back. So I wear them this way for a while - a good while, and decide if I like the length. I might wash again to see if they shrink any more. Jeans always seem to shrink in length not circumference, right? Sometimes wearing them this way even starts to make that wear line right at the edge. which is the beauty of the second shrink - then I lengthen them about a half inch, hem and machine stitch over any wear line. Does this sound like a lot of trouble? Possibly but I hate it when I have jeans just right and then they come through the wash a good bit shorter. Also - the duct tape hem. Or packing tape, or any tape at hand. I have done that a LOT! In college, traveling in Europe, new jeans plus a roll of tape and a few minutes of focus and you are good to go. Using whatever is at hand for a measuring device. Folded paper works perfectly! So this week I just hemmed these jeans which are a year old. Decided the length was OK so time to hem :) I still have no interest in sewing regular denim jeans despite getting very close to a good fit on my Bootstrap Pattern jeans I showed in my previous post, but I do want to sew some other types of pants. I have had a craving for some "crazy pants" i.e. some wild print pants in a casual cotton to wear in the spring. So that might happen.

Do you keep scraps? Paper, fabric, vegetables? Turning to my desk I find plenty of paper scraps with various topics scrawled on then. I have some nice notebooks and always have the idea to keep all my sewing notes in one, but I am a scrap paper saver thus they are always at hand. Are you a paper saver? It seems a shame to waste big gobs of blank paper that come in the mail, all sorts of stupid things, bills that have "this page intentionally blank". What idiot came up with that one? So wasteful. But on my desk, at the kitchen counter, even a few in my car, scraps of paper for lists.

Consequently I will claim that I am not a hoarder but I hate to throw out things that are still useful or potentially so. It seems so wasteful. I have mentioned before but I come from a long line of string savers (didn't you have a grandma that saved string or a dad with cans of assorted nails, screws and other fasteners tucked away on the workbench?) Here is my small bin of interfacing scraps. They get used for things like stabilizing hems or testing interfacing choices.

I have fabric scraps and awkward pieces of muslin that get used in patchwork style when doing garment testing (who cares if the muslin colors are all different?). Actually I have found a lot of my fabric scraps useful for sewing small examples to go along with Craftsy blog posts I have done, so that has worked out. And plenty of what are sold as throwaway plastic plant pots which get scrubbed out and then used to plant cuttings. But other things are more of a difficulty

In my last Random Threads I briefly mentioned the idea of "Tidying Up" by that I meant the Marie Kondo method which is so popular. Having not read the book I only have a passing idea about it but the overarching theme of minimalism is not my style. And there are things in my house that are not sparking joy but are completely useful - even if only at certain times. I can deal with most things but the category that is a conundrum is the meaningful, sentimental or beautiful but useless item. Do you keep or not? I have some things that I just can't get rid of. Here are a few.

I bought these shoes the first time I was in Paris, at the end of a long trip that took me through Italy and onward to France. By the time I got there I had bought 6 pairs of shoes/boots and other assorted leather goods. But then I saw these and they came home as well. I did wear them a lot, but now they are about one size too small plus those heels and my back issues don't mix. But they are so pretty! So I keep them.

And now please don't laugh! Yes these are the original Calvin's. I seem to recall they were dark blue when I first bought them so obviously well used. Hey, teenage me thought they were utterly cool.

and another pair. These are Levi's with the iconic red tab on the pocket. I believe 525's for those of you who know your Levi's. Although they have messed around with the styles and they are not as reliable as they used to be. These are totally wearable now, straight leg jeans except for the color. But oh the denim. As perfect as denim can be, those old Levi's......

Saving the best for last, this is a cocktail dress from the late 1950's that belonged to my mother but which I adopted (stole from her extra closet) ages ago and have worn to so many parties. I know I have said many times that I rarely wear black but there is something about this dress that makes it one of the very best dresses I have worn. I lightened the picture so you can see the detail but it is inky black. I think it looks good on the dress form but on the body it transforms to the ultimate va va voom vintage style - very 50's movie star. The dress is a black crepe and then the section at the waist is draped with chiffon, even a little bow. It is fitted but not tight, curvy in all the right places. The pleats in the bodice emphasize the bust and those little corners on the neckline just add some zing. I love, love, love this dress and have often thought about making a pattern from it to copy. One of these days.

And yet there is always something new to sew. I think that is the issue with making things, unless you give away or sell then you end up with stuff. Clothing is useful but at some point you have enough clothing, however I like to sew for the challenge, it is just something I enjoy doing and so I will continue although I should try to purge more things that are never worn.

Next random topic: Colette patterns. I am completely an outside observer when it comes to most of the independent pattern companies. As I have mentioned before I am not their target market which I think is now more geared to people beginning with sewing. Analyzing their business moves of late they are probably smart to try to diversify, creating an on-line magazine, changing the style of their patterns from a vintage-inspired to a more modern and simple look. But whew - I think their patterns are mostly blah - with a dash of sad and shapeless. If you are going to the trouble to create an online magazine with high quality photos then the examples shown should be stellar - and theirs seem to be barely adequate. Some of the things they show are really poorly done or have a terrible fit. I don't think it is deceptive to show a perfect version as the example, I want to see the way it should look. On another note about independent pattern companies, I just received the latest email newsletter from Stone Mountain Fabrics and Suzan the owner mentioned that they would no longer be stocking Vogue/New Look etc. based on the pricing and what they are sold for in the big chain stores it was financially untenable for them. I completely see her point and if I do buy an indie pattern I try to buy it there at the store.

Let's talk about feet. Sewing machine feet. My various sewing machines have all kinds of different feet and yet I almost never change them. Including several different walking feet or ones with rollers etc. Just have not needed to do so and truthfully I forget they are even in the drawer. I would probably be happy with a straight-stitch only industrial machine. The machines for a home sewer that are made for a variety of stitches have that throat plate with the horizontal opening for the zig-zag and that thing seems made to swallow delicate fabrics. Which is why I will keep my old Singers humming along forever. But back to feet. Do you use this one - the open toe foot? Whew these things have funny names when you stop to think about it. But sometimes, particularly at night I find it impossible to see the stitching due to the plastic/metal pieces in the center of the regular foot. The open toe foot is better for seeing where the needle is going. But not as good at feeding the fabric along. I do tend to use it for really precise sewing, like on a collar edge where I want to be absolutely sure I am following the stitch line. Usually after I have messed up something, had to pick out the stitches and am ready for round 2.

The future of sewing is in good hands: I direct you to this blog: anelisemadeit.blogspot.com. I'm not sure where I came across her blog but she was still in high school when I first read it. Now she is at MIT, still sewing and pursuing all kinds of interesting things, including academics :) And finding time to go to Boston Fashion week! I love her tag line "it's not bragging if you made it". Totally agree! Check this out, she made the Ralph Rucci Vogue pattern coat, in winter white. Fantastic. So another brainy stitcher to keep your eyes on.

I didn't even get to some of my other random topic scrawls, such as exposed zippers which I just don't get. What is the point? I find them jarring and they rarely add interest. Probably just me as their popularity doesn't seem to wane. This one falls in the category of to each her own. Actually I'm not much of a zipper fan in general, as a design element so actively avoid patterns that have a zipper for things other than closure. Personal sewing quirk - we all have them. What is yours?

Enough random thoughts for today - as usual I need to get outside and pull some weeds while the ground is still soft from the January rain. February has been dry and today it is supposed to be 75˚F. What? (my apologies to those of you in the eastern deep freeze) Oh well, it's a nice long weekend so we are enjoying it. Now off to Home Depot to buy mulch. What an exciting day, right?

Happy Valentines and/or President's day weekend sewing, Beth

how about something pink for today's garden photo? Things are starting to bud and bloom around here - as I mentioned, winter weather is just about over and I am already thinking about tomatoes :)
a pink azalea that lives near the front door.

Don't you think that is the case? Denim is so nice to sew. Today is a perfect day to hunker down and sew with a movie in the background and I was having no inspiration until I found a weirdly shaped denim remnant hanging up on my fabric rack. Score! It is barely enough for the project in mind, some creative cuts will be in order but already I can feel the creative juices flowing. Pattern hint: Simplicity 8014, the cover version is perfection.

I have been in a weird mood lately - sewing wise. Not really interested in starting any monumental projects and somewhat hampered by the changeable weather which is almost spring but still not sandal weather. In fact pouring today so the March rain prediction has happily come true. Our parched California landscape appreciates that for sure. Changing things up I will put the garden photo near the top today - this bicolor tulip is perfection!

Checking on my last post here it was back in mid-February. I told myself I was going to take a bit of a sewing and blog break but actually didn't think it would happen. However that coincided with my "un-motivation" so there you have it. And now I have plenty to write about and some new projects already started. Onward to spring!

By the way - this past year I have been involved with some consulting projects - completely separate from sewing and so was not available for teaching as much as I would like. But that project is done. Which leads me to my next topic.

If you are going to be in the bay area this year and want to have some personal sewing instruction please get in touch! I have also been thinking about the possibilities of video consultations. It's so easy to do a Skype call and very fun to meet - even when it is across the internet. Perhaps you have questions about a specific technique, fitting issue, want to discuss pattern options, help with a tailoring project or just general sewing guidance? This is an idea I have had for a while - I am planning to add more details on my sewing lesson website but please leave a comment here if you think this could work, if any of you would be interested, or have any feedback or suggestions on this idea.

Some finished projects will soon get their own blog posts. This is the silk blouse with the hidden buttonhole placket. I just love the idea of the hidden buttonholes in a silk like this - takes all the stress out of making a perfect buttonhole that would be front and center in all its triumph or tragedy depending on how my buttonholer was working on the day. Never fear though - and this technique can be used on most any shirt. I promise a post on the "how-to" very soon. I have written a post for Craftsy on this topic which I believe they will run near the end of this month - with a color coded example I created. It looks a little goofy but I love a color-coded example and it just helps see where all the pieces go. I will post here as well. And one of these days when the sun is shining I will photograph this shirt on me.

Thanks for the comments on my last post about keeping or tossing items that no longer get worn. And one of these days I will make a pattern from that black cocktail dress, you will hear about it here if I do :)

New Vogue patterns - I always love the summer release and this time was no exception - some are just calling my name. But I have yet to get much wear from last summer's dresses so I will refrain for the time being.

Some pattern testing is going on around here - something I rarely do but I bet you can guess which indie pattern designer it is for. New patterns in April I believe. And a real version already planned out in my head.

Lastly - I have done some fabric designs for MyFabricDesigns.com and I am very impressed with the quality of the fabric that has arrived. So those are also in my sewing queue.

Hey - I guess I am out of my sewing slump! Plus the garden is looking better thanks to all that rain. Tomato seedlings growing on the windowsill. One less hour of sleep last night for Daylight Saving's Time is worth it to me to turn the page on winter. Gosh I am such a wimp - what if I lived in a place with actual winter weather? Hibernate and sew I guess :)

Happy Spring Forward Sewing,
Beth

Previously I have stated that I don't make many muslins ( a test garment prior to sewing with the real garment fabric) but in the past couple of years I have sewn them more and more. Trying out new to me pattern companies, sewing for others, doing pattern testing for an indie pattern designer - these are all reasons I've had to sew up a muslin.

So I wrote a post for Craftsy on my top reasons to sew a muslin. In fact I was surprised by how many reasons I actually came up with. And all quite valid in various circumstances. Here is the link to the post which you can read there.

Yesterday I had a 60% off coupon for Joann Fabrics so I went over there early and bought a few yards of the 120" wide muslin fabric for about $ 8. I try not to buy much actual muslin fabric but that is kind of a steal, and using the traditional unbleached muslin is really nice for fitting etc. I can mark all over it with a pen while fitting and see the markings easily so as to be able to transfer back to my paper pattern pieces. Also the unbleached muslin takes the markings from the waxed tracing paper very well. A while ago I bought a package of the red wax tracing paper and so I use that now to mark darts, seamlines etc. The red shows up really well on the muslin fabric. Sometimes I even go over the markings with pen/pencil because I really like to see all the dots and other markings when I am doing a muslin.

As for other options on muslin fabric - the example above left in blue is an old bedsheet. (for my black wool coat, Simplicity 2311, on the right is the muslin for my version of the House of Pinheiro Brasilia dress). While old and worn bedsheets might seem like a good choice for muslining garments I find them a bit troublesome. For one thing no selvage - so you have to figure out the grain on your own. Secondly most sheets are quite tightly woven and very difficult to pin. But in a pinch they will do. So I do prefer actual cotton muslin fabric - and I save all kinds of scraps when cutting out muslins - then on the next project for collars, or other small pieces I use any scraps first and then cut out the larger pieces. My miserly tendencies know no bounds!

Another way to "find" fabric for muslins is to use quilting cottons and use the back side (without the printing) as the outer side of the test garment. If you are using quilting cotton the print can be a distraction when fitting but by flipping it over and sewing with the pattern on the inside you can get a less distracting version for your fit evaluation. I have bought a lot of muslin fabric at garage sales. Don't overlook some of the horrible stuff - particularly poly double knits which nobody has willingly sewn with since ? but is a really nice stand-in for a modern ponte knit when pattern testing.

Thanks for the comments and emails on my idea about sewing instruction/consultation via Skype. I am working out my ideas and will be back soon with more details.

Happy vernal equinox sewing,

Beth

Vogue 1448, a dress and some doubts

A skirt, a top, a dress, with a tropical theme

Saved by the Muslin: Burda 04/2015 # 116 Blazer with Stand-up Collar

Random Threads # 16, Musings and pattern talk

Save yourself from the clutches of alteration!

Vogue 9032 has improved my attitude about pants

Buried treasure, Simplicity 2152 skirt

Burda Tri-Color coat 12/2012 # 138, part 1

The Pattern Whisper recommends: Winter Coats

Burda Tri-Color coat 12/2012 # 138 completed

Burda Wave skirt 12/2012 # 109 in wool coating

It's been a Burda year: Dress pattern Burda 6853 in wool and ponte

Sewing year in review 2015

Burda 6946 a different twist on a wrap dress

Random Threads # 17, What is up with that?

Silk blouse with hidden buttonholes, Simplicity 2339

My shirt obsession continues, and a Bootstrap Fashion custom jeans pattern is a nice suprise

Random Threads # 18, saving, keeping, treasuring, hoarding?

When in doubt sew denim

My top reasons for making a muslin